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TOM PARKER BOWLES reviews the most expensive baked potato in London – this is why it costs £150 By Tom Parker Bowles For You Magazine Published: 08:01, 2 November 2024 | Updated: 08:01, 2 November 2024 e-mail View comments An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer you simply didn’t refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill was on someone else. Because caviar, smeared on blinis or piled high on baked potatoes, sure didn’t come cheap.

There may have been other things on the menu, but no one paid them much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff. Caviar Kaspia’s signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few better dishes on earth.



..only the price, at just under £150, is ridiculous’ Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades back.

And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews, was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy’s. It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.

Until last year, when she reopened as a members’ club in another Mayfair backstreet. But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning the doors were opened to the great unwashed. Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome – albeit near empty – dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man.

The soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of table lamps, indecorously bright, .

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