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It sounds like an outlandish fantasy, but the cosy, recently-refurbed William IV is a welcome reality. Located off a main thoroughfare a 10 minute walk from Old Street, the black-painted pub with smart gold lettering has an unfussy, wood-panelled freshly-decorated downstairs bar with large, clear windows overlooking the street. The downstairs bar is unfussy but cosy with low lighting and wood panelling.

(Image: Rebecca B Jones) Upstairs is The Dining Room , a wooden-floored informal candlelit space with scrub top tables, mismatched chairs, attentive service, and a pleasing chatter of happy diners. Come the cold weather there's a fire to be lit as you enjoy your superior British classics. The aim is to deliver them at prices you can afford as a post-work treat while saving for a deposit on a flat in a distant outer borough.



Old Willie was notably a sailor King, which chimes with the maritime colour scheme, and fish-heavy menu - courtesy of Wright Brothers and their day boat catch from Brixham. Ingredients are sourced from Wright Brothers fishmonger and meats are from Swaledale Butchers. (Image: Rebecca B Jones) A 'Coastal Martini Shot' and Carlingford Oyster arrived as an appetiser - the crisp, briney mini cocktail a perfect accompaniment for the shellfish liberally spritzed with lemon.

Starters hover around the £8-£9 mark and include a salty whipped cod roe scooped up with crisps, anchovies on toast, and a scallop with garlicky butter and breadcrumbs. We loved the cultured .

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