In the 46 years of his career, architect Ernst Ziller (1837 – 1923) designed more than 500 buildings across Greece. Born in Germany, he was sent to Athens in 1861 by his employer, Danish architect Theophil Hansen. Ziller eventually became a Greek citizen, married Greek musician Sofia Doudou and died in Athens.
He left an impressive legacy, defining Athen’s prevailing neoclassical aesthetic after the War of Independence, to the extent that some have dubbed 19th century Athens as ‘Ziller’s Athens’. His architectural style, incorporating North Italian Renaissance and Byzantine influences, resonate in buildings like the National Theatre of Greece and the presidential residence in Athens, and reaching further with the Archaeological Museum in Milos and the Metropolitan Church of Saint Gregory Palamas in Thessaloniki. In 1881, Ziller designed a mansion in Athens for merchant Efstathios Stathopoulos, located in Psiri.
“The building was zoned for dual use, with shops on the ground floor, and the owner’s residence on the first and second floors. Over the years, it served other purposes, although mainly on the ground floor until it was finally abandoned,” shared Eleni Chatziioannou. Chatzzioannou is the cheery, hospitable manager for Monument Hotel, which, as you would have guessed, is the building’s latest reincarnation .
Opened in April 2023, its owner is Grigoris Tolkas, who started his hospitality business in 2014 with the Canvas Suites tucked within Santorini’s cave houses. The Echoes Luxury Suites followed in 2019. Tolkas’ aims to develop meaningful hotels and is particularly drawn to preserving historic properties.
In Athens, he had discovered Ziller’s little masterpiece and engaged local architecture studio Mplusm to restore it while updating it for contemporary needs. Tolkas helped handpick the furniture, fabrics and fabrics and fittings “to breathe life into an abandoned gem,” said Chatzzioannou. “In turn, the chic interiors complement the historic setting, embodying Athenian glamour by blending modern, vintage and bespoke touches throughout.
” The location of Monument Hotel puts guests at the cusp of Athen’s motley identities, tucked between the tourist-laden, tree-lined Athinas Street and narrow lanes speckled with graffiti-faced buildings. But not too long ago, the area was to be avoided. “Its history dates back to the years of the Greek War of Independence, when settlers arrived here from the countryside.
It acted as a haven for the revolutionaries during the war and was the home of criminal gangs like the ‘koutsavakides’ in the 1800s,” said Chatziioannou. It was also a crafts hub – “the heartbeat of Athens’ working class, being the go-to place for local artisans, leather craftsmen, blacksmiths and other tradespeople” – amid crime and vices. The city centre’s gentrification in the early 1990s spilt over.
Now, modern crafts shops producing items like leather sandals and quirky souvenirs, hardware shops and local taverns, boutique hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants define Psiri’s hodgepodge charisma. A 20-minute stroll through the nearby ancient Plaka parts leads to the Acropolis. Monument Hotel’s opening raises Psiri’s cool quotient.
It also offers guests the rare chance to stay in a Listed Building by the Ministry of the Environment and honoured as a Piece of Art and Modern Monument by the Greek Ministry of Culture. The pretty building is coloured cream and capped with a terracotta roof. Curved marble balconies protrude from the corner block, sculptural reliefs frame window pediments and pronounced arches give weight to the ground storey facades.
These, together with original ceiling frescoes, plaster, marble and wood elements in the interior took more than two years to restore by master restorers approved by the Ministry of Culture. “The restoration also couldn’t be perfect. Instead, it was made to look like it had been completed centuries before,” said Mplusm Architects’ co-founder, Memos Filippidis.
There was also plentiful unseen work, such as repairing dents, cable passages and cracks, and dealing with rotten wood. The hotel is only accessible by guests; a doorman peering out of vintage glass panels in the main double doors anticipate returning guests and keep the public out. During my stay, I was handed an actual key instead of a key card, taken from a key rack like in old school hotels, at the vestibule’s small reception.
In the foyer, original decorated ceiling with shades of dusty pink and almond draws attention upwards, and marble with patina, towards the floor. Walls, painted in the same technique Ziller deployed in the past, give the illusion of timber panelling. No elevator could be added to the listed structure but walking up and down the odd-shaped staircase is part of the charm.
Upstairs, nine guestrooms and suites range from 19 sq m to 40 sq m. Each respond uniquely to the building’s idiosyncrasies, but all share the delight of ceiling frescoes, contemporary Scandinavian furniture and lighting fixtures, shuttered windows, limewashed walls, porcelain-and-bronze light switches and handcrafted beds. New bathrooms are mirrored boxes that stop short of touching the ceiling, they “‘disappear’ and reflect the ceiling,” Fillipidis described.
“In this way, the new and old acquire a clear differentiation.” Each guestroom has its own names inspired by the Greek vocabulary, which influenced their themes, materials and colours. “For example, Muse (from the word ‘mousa’) refers to a woman as the source of inspiration; we believe this room is as inspiring and enchanting.
Epos – our best room with an Acropolis view and an arresting verandah – relates to the word epic, which comes from the ancient Greek word ‘epos’ describing anything extraordinary and remarkable,” said Chatziioannou. In Ancanthus, the plant commonly found in Greek architecture had been immortalised in the ceiling decoration. I was assigned Sepia, one of the smaller rooms but no lacking in atmosphere.
In fact, I almost forgot the time as I lay on the bed, tracing the ceiling patterns and thinking about who used to claim this bedroom more than a hundred years ago. Come morning, I headed to the ground storey, greened by potted palms, and softened by sheer curtains, Persian rugs, antique paintings and translucent lamps from Scandinavian brand New Works. A vintage drinks trolley beckoned with self- or staff-made tipple, to be enjoyed while lounging on poufy Gubi lounge chairs.
These mingle with decorative items handpicked by Tolkas from local markets and antique shops. “Aiming to keep the philosophy and the atmosphere of a former aristocratic mansion and the vibes of an intimate, friendly guesthouse, Monument introduces a modern interpretation of heartfelt hospitality with a high level of personalised attention to every single requirement and personal need of its guests,” explained Chatziioannou. This approach is evident in every aspect of the hotel’s operation – from the warm welcome and the customisable breakfast, to its team’s tailored suggestions for behind-the-scenes tours, best restaurants and hidden corners around the city, she added.
One can also book a bespoke arts tour, in partnership with Arthens, or follow the curated walk on the hotel’s website that includes stopping for Greek doughnuts (loukoumades) at Krinos, visiting the National Archaeological Museum by Ernst Ziller and reaching the famous marble stadium of Kallimarmaro – home to the first modern Olympic games – before lunch. But first, breakfast. It is the only meal served in the hotel and for good reason – the neighbourhood is chock-a-block with sumptuous eats.
Guests who dislike crowded hotel buffets will delight in Monument Hotel’s intimate dining room that serves a curated and clean menu. Organic jams, petite sandwiches layered with local ingredients, Cretan kaltsounia (sweet cheese turnovers) and fresh fruit are all laid out neatly on a small table. Match these with a selection from the a la carte menu for no extra charge.
From the latter, I enjoyed a satisfactory bowl of Greek yogurt with homemade cherry spoon sweet (preserved cherries) and a freshly made omelette with tomatoes and cheese from Tinos. Vegetarian and gluten-free options are also available. Chatziioannou highlighted that food is locally sourced to reduce carbon footprint, and support local producers and small family businesses.
“We buy our organic bread every morning from a local, nearby bakery and organic jam from a small family business in Northern Greece. Our honey is from Evia Island, and the cheeses and cold cuts from the famous nearby delicatessen shop, Karamanlidika,” she said. The hotel’s social and sustainable endeavours extend to reducing food waste and fighting malnutrition by donating surplus food to a non-profit organisation, adopting a paperless policy, single-use toiletries bottles and refill stations for drinking water.
It is not surprising that the guest profile is described by Chatziioannou as those looking for unique accommodation experiences, admire small properties, personalised services, and who love history, design and culture while preferring low-key luxury and privacy. A 24-hour concierge ensures all needs are met. The icing on the cake? Hidden in the basement of this boutique hotel is the wellness area, dressed in dark wood and low light.
Guest have complimentary use of the hammam and sauna, and can request for treatments such as hot stone or Swedish massages, or rejuvenating hydration facials using locally sourced almond oil infused with Greek natural essential oils. As I sat in the sauna after a long day of walking, it was without a doubt that here is one of those rare hotels where guests feel so at home, they find it hard to leave..
