T he translucent, pastel blue water of the Ova da Roseg river gushes over the rocks, as it tumbles from the pristine Swiss Bernina glaciers above Pontresina. My trackie bottoms are rolled up to my knees and I am barefoot. It’s 9am and it’s about 1C.
Our yoga teacher has already waded into the icy, slightly raging, torrent. She is ‘Kneipping’ – a traditional holistic therapy involving paddling in freezing water. The therapeutic practice is named after Sebastian Kneipp – a catholic priest who pioneered hydrotherapy healing.
We’ve been warned that no one does Kneipping at this time of day because it’s too cold – even for the Swiss. Stood ankle-deep in the water, I wonder what all the fuss is about – for ten seconds. And then the burning shock begins.
This is a glacial ice-creek. I breathe in deeply and hop out. I quickly grab a towel and am told to pummel my feet to bring the circulation back.
The feeling gradually returns. And then I get the point of it. There is tingling warmth in my toes which radiates quickly through my entire body.
It’s like an adrenaline shot – and puts a zip in my step all day. Read more: Could this ‘dull’ Swiss city become Europe’s queer capital? Invigorated, I climb back up the slippery, frosty banks and into the welcoming warmth of the Grand Hotel Kronenhof. For 176 years, the property has been a glorious fixture of the fairytale Upper Engadin valley, expanding from a humble inn to become a luxurious five-star hotel with 1.
