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I’m Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week’s Tasting Notes.
Messing with perfection I don’t know if Rosario Mazzeo — “Ross” to some but not all of his Roma Market customers — would approve. I’m kind of afraid to ask him. But I’ve acquired a habit of taking his wildly popular deli creation known simply as “the sandwich” (always with quotes) and adding fresh mozzarella, sweet red cherry peppers, some strategically placed basil leaves and an extra drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
Sometimes I also sprinkle a few flakes of Maldon salt over the cheese. To be clear, I am not saying that I’ve improved what many — including my late husband and restaurant critic Jonathan Gold — have long considered “a perfect sandwich.” Let’s just say I’ve enhanced it a bit.
Of course, “the sandwich,” it must be acknowledged, doesn’t actually need enhancing. Here’s how food columnist Jenn Harris described “the sandwich” in her 2020 profile of Mazzeo : “Wrapped in cotton candy-colored butcher paper, its contents are simple and never change: crusty bread made by a Sicilian baker, a drizzle of good olive oil, a couple slices each of capicola, mortadella, salami and provolone. It has taken on legendary status over the years; a necessary stop for anyone who claims to know or love Italian sub sandwic.
