You’ll always find someone who says they know the secret for the absolute version of this Ashkenazi classic, and that nothing tastes like theirs/their bubba’s/auntie Rivka’s. I have no need to brag as I know I have the secret — taking your time. Caramelising the onions low and slow gives the dish its unique texture and flavour.
You can use a flavourless vegetable oil, but for a really great flavour, use kosher chicken fat (shmaltz). Finally, hand chop your livers. But most important, nice and slow: you’ll really taste the difference.
Method: Warm the oil over a very low heat in a large pan and fry the onions in with some salt until soft and caramelised, stirring continuously. The onions should turn a very light colour — do not let them brown or they’ll be bitter. This should take you 10-15 minutes.
Add the chicken livers and chicken fat (or extra oil) and cook for another 10 minutes or so until cooked through. Reserving the liquid from the pan, drain it off, cool and then refrigerate the chicken livers and fat in one dish and the drained liquid in another. Peel and grate the eggs.
Chop the chicken liver and onion mixture finely with a knife until it’s the right consistency for you then add the grated egg and enough of the cooking liquid/fat to create the texture you want. Season generously with salt and pepper to taste. We served ours with toast and a schmear of mustard — but eat it however you like.
Shiri is co-owner and chef at Epicurus Camden and soon-to-.
