I adore beets of all kinds: the earthy sweet, the lurid magenta, the striped pink and the goldens. Sure, they’re not to everyone’s taste, but their strong character stands up to a range of intense flavors — vinegar, horseradish, mustard, piquant dairy sauces, vinaigrettes, smoked fish. I like them best either steamed or roasted.
Cooking mitigates the effects of geosmin, the natural earthy compound that beets contain that is associated with the vegetable’s smell of “fresh rain” and “forest soil.” Early in the season, beets are mild and sweet; as they mature, they become more assertive, more themselves. Beets are like sponges and absorb flavors quickly, especially if dressed while still warm and left to cool before so the flavors are fully absorbed and then re-dressed before serving to give them a boost.
The same applies to other root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, rutabagas and turnips. It’s hard to beat the beet-goat cheese salad combo, but there’s plenty more to love. Toss beets with your favorite lemon or lime vinaigrette, curried yogurt and horseradish sauce.
Beets pair nicely with salty cured meats and smoked fish. Cooked beets will keep at least five days in the refrigerator in a covered container, ready for last minute side dishes, salads and grain bowls. Red beets “bleed” and stain ferociously, so roast them wrapped in foil until just tender; cooking times will vary depending on the size and age of the beet.
Leave the skins intact until t.
