Celebrated for her bold, fantastical designs, Dior Joaillerie artistic director Victoire de Castellane is known to combine historical flair with vibrant gemstones and precious metals. Her latest high jewellery collection reimagines the classic Toile de Jouy pattern into playful, modern masterpieces. This iconic 18th-century motif, seen on Dior’s Book Tote bag, Walk‘n’Dior trainers and scarves, serves as the central theme for the 172-piece Diorama and Diorigami collections.
Marking a first for Castellane, the collection introduces animal motifs in a stunning blend of detailed figurative and abstract designs, crafted with advanced techniques in gold work and stone setting. Originally seen on the walls of Christian Dior’s first boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne, the Toile de Jouy theme takes centre stage in the Diorama collection as a whimsical woodland featuring carved and diamond-set squirrels, fawns and rabbits among lush foliage. Necklaces reveal miniature deer and owls in tonal lacquer, swans on mother-of-pearl lakes, and flora adorned with diamond-pavé foxes and squirrels.
The three-dimensional beauty of this collection is epitomised by the Diorama Forêt Enchantée necklace, a masterpiece that required over 6,000 hours of meticulous work. Specialists crafted glyptic chrysoprase animals – an ancient art of sculpting ornamental stones – using modern techniques. The necklace features intricately engraved yellow gold leaves and foliage set with 1,300 gems, including white diamonds, pearls, yellow sapphires, green tsavorites and emeralds.
The detailed aesthetic extends to a ring showcasing a sleeping fawn and a pair of earrings adorned with animated squirrels, both embellished with emeralds. Featuring an extraordinary array of coloured stones – rubies, sapphires, black opals, turquoises, tsavorite garnets, and emeralds – Diorama showcases the largest gem trove Dior has ever dedicated to a single collection. While the gem-set animal motifs are stunning, the collection’s stand-out feature is its use of rare artistic techniques.
These include glyptic carving, lacquer work and various goldworking methods, such as pricked gold for a frosted branch effect and mirror-polished gold for enhanced light reflection, all of which amplify the collection’s magical look and feel. While Diorama is a figurative representation of a stroll through the enchanting Milly-la-Forêt in France and its wooded landscape, the Diorigami is abstract in its approach. The collection presents a jeweller’s interpretation of Japanese origami and the couture technique of pleating – a hallmark of Dior since the introduction of the iconic Bar Jacket and its pleated skirt.
Both collections feature multicoloured precious stones, but Diorigami stands out with its merry contrasts, incorporating playful rabbits, ladybirds and flowers. This contrast is enhanced by the construction of the pieces, where movable elements like flower bells add a dynamic depth to the jewels. Dior Joaillerie’s signature lacquer also enhances the nuances of the collection, bringing together dazzling shades like the deep green of emeralds paired with the softer, verdant tones of tsavorite garnets.
The Diorama and Diorigami collections stand out for their versatility, featuring high jewellery belts, interchangeable bracelets and anklets adorned with pearls, diamonds and coloured stones, as well as three distinctive headpieces. These unique pieces complement a core selection of brooches, offering high jewellery enthusiasts something truly exceptional. Reimagining the classic Toile de Jouy pattern with playful animal motifs and vibrant, artistic gold and stonework.
