I push out the night’s cobwebs with a cup of coffee, sitting on the sundeck of our elegant barge, while watching the sun peak above the trees that hedge France’s Marne River. A wispy mist rises from the warm water like dragon’s breath; it swirls and drifts, dancing in the morning light. The engine of our vessel, the Nenuphar, rumbles to life, echoing across the river’s smoky surface.
The ship’s personable young deckhand Sacha releases the ropes from the dock bollards, and we push off from the wharf. I have always been excited by the mysteries of river travel, sailing on a slow boat down a meandering, well-travelled waterway stokes my imagination. With the Summer Olympics getting into full swing, and Paris all-abustle, I was looking for the perfect antidote, a relaxing French escape, close to, but worlds away from the speed and excitement of the Games.
I found it here, floating leisurely along a peaceful canal on a barge, through the Champagne region of northeastern France. This is slow travel at its best, calm, cultivated and serene, as the historic waterway forces travellers to slow down to its own relaxing pace. The scenery is constantly changing, the passing vessels, bustle of activity, and characters you meet lead to new adventures and fresh discoveries around every bend.
Our smartly designed vessel for the week-long voyage, the 39-metre barge Nenuphar, is built for intimacy and luxury. The ship’s elegant decor and superb service remind me of a fine country hotel. Of course, this hotel floats past beguiling villages, medieval churches, castles, riverside shops, sun-drenched lavender fields and expansive vineyards.
Along our route, there are country markets to browse, historic towns to wander, and wonderful family champagne houses for exploring and tasting. On the ship’s bow is the sundeck with a covered sitting area, and a row of bicycles for guest use, while the stern is taken up by the wheelhouse. Inside, a well-appointed and comfortable salon serves as a cocktail hour, late night, or pre-tour gathering space.
Behind that are the chic dining room and galley. Below decks are six suites for 12 passengers, each with a sizable bathroom and king or twin beds. Additionally, our friendly bi-lingual crew of six lives on board.
Matt is our charming and capable captain and tour guide, Coco our very skilled pilot, and Cyrille our talented Swiss chef. We have Sacha (think Gilligan), and Charlotte and Jamie caring for us as housekeepers and hostesses. French Country Waterways curates cruise vacations centred on delighting taste buds, and Chef Cyrille is a marvel, serving up culinary masterpieces out of his tiny kitchen.
He takes advantage of farmer’s markets for locally produced foods, and sources fresh baked goods from boulangerie along the route. Between the main course and dessert during lunch and dinner, we enjoy what we start calling “cheese-o’clock,” three local cheeses paired with excellent wines. The Nenuphar, built in 1936 as a cargo vessel, has just the right dimensions and shape to fit like a puzzle piece into each canal lock.
Even the angles on the bow just allow the lock doors to swing inwards, and the fit on the port and starboard side is mere centimetres. Coco’s expert approaches are perfect, as she slips the barge seamlessly into each chamber. I do have the chance to take the wheel myself for an easier stretch, a humbling exercise that leaves me all the more impressed with our pilot’s skills.
Without side thrusters, the long stretch from the aft wheelhouse is formidable, and tracking the boat down the narrow canal is a challenge. Connecting Paris to eastern France, the Marne River and its two connecting canals, the Canal Latéral à la Marne and the Canal de l’Aisne à la Marne flow through Champagne’s scenic vineyards. Avenues of regal cypress and plane trees hedge the canal, planted for shade, and because their thick and tangled root systems helped stabilize the waterway’s banks.
We cruise under their green canopy listening to the songbirds and doves, and watching ducks, swans and herons. The small wine villages are peaceful and romantic, the ideal places to moor for the night. We take advantage of some lock stations to jump ashore for a short walk along the towpath to the next lock.
Or, we take one of the ship’s bikes to explore the nearby villages or cycle through the extensive vineyards. The wineries date to Roman times, but it was the discovery of effervescent wine in the 17th century that made Champagne recognized around the world. Epernay, at the centre of the region, boasts the Avenue de Champagne.
Among our barge cruise’s itinerary highlights is a private tour and tasting at the renowned Champagne House of Perrier. At Ployez-Jacquemart, a family-owned champagne house now run by its third generation, we wandered through the labyrinth of underground chalk tunnels and caves, where endless rows of bottles are stored. In addition to being the home of the world’s most celebrated wine, Champagne’s location to the east of Paris has placed it at the centre of momentous events.
One outing brought us to Reims and its stunning 36-metre cathedral, where 33 kings of France were crowned. A bronze statue of the formidable Joan of Arc also stands in the shadow of the cathedral she helped liberate. Reims Cathedral is thought to be the finest example of medieval Gothic architecture in the world and is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Another emotional outing has us visiting the Chateau-Thierry War Memorial overlooking the Marne River Valley and First World War battlefields of Belleau Wood. The impressive monument commemorates the 1,800 Americans who died in this region. Nearby, the 17-hectare American Cemetery is hauntingly beautiful.
The pace of our barge journey is peaceful and relaxing, allowing visitors an intimate and meaningful way to explore a region’s landscape, culture, and culinary charms. Gourmet meals and French wines combine with on-shore excursions for an unforgettable cruise, floating through Champagne. France has 8,000 km of navigable rivers and canals, and French Country Waterways has a fleet of four, shallow draft canal barges built for travellers who want to become acquainted with the countryside in a unique, authentic, and very luxurious manner.
Besides the Champagne region, French Country Waterways offers barge cruises in Burgundy, Upper Loire and Alsace-Lorraine regions of France. www.fcwl.
com.
