Justin Yap recalls being around 11 years old when his calling to the world of fashion revealed itself. The 39-year-old designer of the eponymous label Justin Yap Atelier has always had a love for drawing, but it was only at around this pre-teen age when he discovered his interest in creating clothes. “I knew I love to draw but on the contrary, I hated drawing humans, I had to practise, and I was self taught,” says Yap.
“I then started sketching clothes, I remember wasting stacks of A4 paper and I would file the ones I like in a clear folder, like a collection, a portfolio. I knew instantly I wanted to be a fashion designer, and I had to start somewhere.” After graduating high school, he enrolled into a tailoring school to learning the fundamentals of dress making, which he says is possibly the most important skill to have as a designer.
He went on to take part in various competitions, winning his very first award at 19. “I was then invited to join fashion weeks and I’ve never looked back since,” says Yap. When it comes to his designs, he does look back.
He tends to revisit his previous works and think about how they could have been improved. “Sometimes I dig out photos from my previous runway shows, there would be some elements that I would improve and that’s how I grow. I’m never truly 100% satisfied with my previous works.
“But of course wearability to me is of upmost importance when designing a collection. Questions I asked myself whilst designing, is this piece ‘desirable’?” he says. Justin Yap's design aesthetic has always been sharply tailored clothing that celebrates the skims of the human figure.
Photo: Justin Yap Read more: Fashion weeks shine a light on Malaysia, with the scene more accessible Yap is showing his latest collection at the upcoming Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week 2024, which he reveals will celebrate his “obsessions”. “My obsession is towards brocades, reptilian textures, shawl lapel, blazer dresses. I’ve always wanted to do a collection with animal prints, instinctively I feel that this is the right time.
I called it, ‘Animalique’,” he says. “The show then ends with opulent evening pieces in black and gold. I wanted the collection to scream opulence and sharpness, and quintessentially Justin Yap, with sharply tailored blazer dresses featuring strong shoulders, and variations of bomber jackets that did very well these past few seasons.
” The collection also introduces cut out details and asymmetrical lines that flatter the figure, in sumptuous and luxe fabrics with gold thread brocades to heavy satins. “And as for the animal prints, they were all real photographs of crocodile, python textures and zebra skin digitally printed on Mikado and heavy crepes,” says Yap. How would you describe your design aesthetic, and how has it evolved over the years? I like the saying “you are what you eat” to translate to, in fashion, “you are what you design”.
I have an intimate relationship with occasion wear, and I’d like to think I’m “loyal” to my aesthetics, which has always been sharply tailored clothing that celebrates the skims of the human figure, employing the most luxurious fabrics sourced worldwide and sewn to perfection. Bold colours captivate me. I started out with a signature bright hue of turquoise and it has somehow evolved into a darker shade of teal.
The Justin Yap woman (or man) exudes an effortless confidence. And I dress self-assured, confident individuals who seeks no validity from others. Though in this day and age when some brands could slap a logo on a tee and retail it for a hefty price tag, I still refuse to let it discourage my vision, my love for couture sewing, and I grow with my technique.
The more I do, the more I learn. Apart from creating designs, what are some other endeavours you engage in within the industry? I’ve been invited to various fashion institutions over the years as a judge for their finals and assessment - Raffles, Esmod, Inti college to name a few, and some other fashion competitions such as Hung Innovation Awards. I do enjoy teaching, perhaps I would take up lecturing one day.
I feel that it’s a way to give back to the community, like passing the baton. To anyone passionate about this craft, I’ll gladly pass my knowledge to them. He has never looked back since becoming a fashion designer.
Photo: The Star/KAMARUL ARIFFIN When it comes to the local fashion designing community, where do you feel designers thrive the most and why? Malaysian designers thrive most at made to measure evening wear and traditional wear, as clients are more willing to spend on those garments. However, over the years I have seen emerging new brands and designers focusing on streetwear and ready to wear. This is mainly because consumers are getting younger and more savvy when it comes to shopping fashion.
In your opinion, do Malaysian designers receive enough support from locals, why or why not, and if not, what do you think needs to change? I think Malaysians do support local designers, if the price point is right for them. Sometimes I do get discount requests from clients when it comes to made to measure garments. I charge reasonably, after all what appears to be easy to do is never easy.
From designing to securing fabrics, getting zips, buttons, and more, and then there’s the pattern making, the cutting and the sewing and the finishing all just for one garment. Having said that, I think consumers needs to be educated on the process of what we do to understand what fashion design entails. Read more: Style evolution: The designers behind local fashion label Fiziwoo embrace change What else do you want to achieve in the industry and beyond, do you have any dreams yet to fulfill ? I do see my collection being sold overseas, and that’s the plan in the next two to three years.
To expand the exclusive ready to wear range to Europe, even if it’s a small collection to a well curated multi-label boutique. There is a plan to work with someone in Italy, but it’s all initial stages now. Could you name one or two designers (dead or alive) that inspire you, and why? I’ve always loved the works of Giorgio Armani and Tom Ford, mainly because they really understand what works for their brand, and they are really loyal to their own aesthetics.
If you really dig into the archives, the clothes speak for themselves, they are well made, wearable and they are the epitome of luxury. What they’ve created in the past decade or two it is still relevant today and I think that’s something worth celebrating. I was fortunate enough to attend an exhibition in Milan at the Armani/Silos where I could really take a closer look at what Mr Armani has done with just a simple jacket or dress.
What appeared to be simple it is not at all easy to do. I like the idea of that and I apply that aesthetic to my brand too..
