In the mountains southeast of the pottery town of Mashiko sits a serene temple complex with roots that date back to the eighth century. Today it is relatively quiet and likely sees most visitors because it is Temple 20 of the Bando 33 Kannon pilgrimage. But its history, sylvan setting, and venerable artwork make Saimyoji a beautiful spot to visit.
History Saimyoji is one of the four oldest temples of eastern Japan. It was founded in 737AD by Arimaro Ki, scion of an ancient family of warriors and literati that later became the Mashiko family from which the town derives its name. Like many temples of that period, it was dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy.
It served as a monastery during its earliest days so that by the end of the eighth century there were twelve separate residential structures for the monks who lived there. Around this time, Kobo Daishi (744-835) visited and planned the overall layout of the temple grounds. The entire temple complex was destroyed by fire in 1127, the victim of a local military skirmish.
Since soldiers often sought shelter in temples in those times, battles regularly ensued, resulting in destruction of temples. It was 50 years before Saimyoji could be rebuilt. Not long after that, Yoritomo Minamoto (1147-1199), Japan’s first-ever shogun, visited the temple with his second son when they made the 1,300 km.
trek to establish the Bando 33 Kannon pilgrimage course that remains popular to this day. Alas, the temple was destroyed by battle fire again in 1351. And again it rose from the ashes.
The temple’s main hall was rebuilt by 1394 and remains the central building of the complex to this day. The current central gate for the temple was built a century later; a three-tiered pagoda followed in 1543. The pagoda is unique both for having only three (rather than five) levels, and for its design.
The ground level is in a Japanese style and the top level is in a Chinese style; the middle floor is a blend of the two. An Enma Hall was added in 1714 and a two-story bell tower in 1722, completing the temple complex that visitors see today. Sylvan Setting Many of Japan’s earliest temples were established in remote mountain settings, the ascetic monks wishing to remove themselves from the workaday world.
Visitors are already deep in mountainside woodland when they reach the parking lot from where all visitors must proceed on foot, ascending a long flight of stone steps overhung by tall trees. The central gate, which dates to 1492, stands at the top of the stairs, flanked by the three-tiered pagoda and the Emma Hall. Across a courtyard inside the central gate and up a few more stairs, stands the temple’s main hall.
The entire square of the complex is surrounded by mountain forest so dense that it seems to muffle all sound. While the central gate, the Enma Hall and the bell tower all have traditional thatched roofs, the main hall is now roofed in copper sheets, burnished green with age. Depending on the Buddhist calendar, the main hall may also be swathed in colorful cloth bunting, creating a colorful contrast to the leafy surroundings.
A delightful rest house called Dokkoisho sits at the foot of the stone stairs leading from the parking lot to the temple. Visitors can have hot or cold drinks and sweets while enjoying gabled ceilings, exposed beams, and Oya stone features or gazing out large windows overlooking the wooded mountainside. Venerable Artwork Saimyoji is home to a number of distinctive Buddhist statues.
Shortly after the temple was founded, Gyoki (670-749), a Korean monk who spent most of his life preaching Buddhism across Japan, carved an 11-headed Kannon to be placed in the temple. Today, there are several Kannon statues, but visitors will have to guess at whether any of them are Gyoki’s work. Notwithstanding the relatively new roof of the main hall, the building itself is centuries old and sports intricately carved transoms depicting various Buddhist scenes covered with faded paint and name stickers left by pilgrims long past.
The Enma Hall sits across the central courtyard from the bell tower. Built in 1714 and restored in 1743, it houses five colorful carvings of Buddhist figures, the most prominent being a laughing Enma. Enma is the overlord of hell, the one who sits in judgment of the souls of men, potentially sending them to one of 16 forms of purgatory until they are sufficiently redeemed to be reborn and start again.
Enma is usually depicted wearing red Chinese judge’s robes with a grave facial expression, but the Enma of Saimyoji is known as the laughing Enma because of his expressive face. Perhaps it is a maniacal laugh. Getting There Saimyoji is definitely an off-the-beaten-track destination and makes a great addition to a weekend exploring the pottery village of Mashiko.
From JR Mashiko Station, catch a bus bound for Utsunomiya Tobu and get off at Jonaizaka (about a five-minute ride and also an interesting neighborhood to explore). From there, it is about a 40-minute walk to Saimyoji, most of it mountain woodland. Alternatively, catch a taxi from JR Mashiko Station or travel by private car.
Vicki L Beyer, a regular Japan Today contributor, is a freelance travel writer who also blogs about experiencing Japan. Follow her blog at jigsaw-japan.com .
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