It is easy to see why Beverley is a jewel in East Yorkshire’s crown. Like York, it has its own historic minster. It is also prosperous, with a thriving market and many independent shops.
And there is Beverley Racecourse. Over the years, I have been to Beverley on many a Saturday, market day, but I just hadn’t got round to it for a year or so. Thus, a chance to stay at the Beverley Arms Hotel was too good an offer to refuse.
I had originally sought a Saturday, but the popular 3-star venue is usually booked out, though owners Daniel Thwaites Ltd were able to fit me in last Sunday. The day was set to be a scorcher, so I left just after breakfast along the A1079, but on arriving at Beverley’s outskirts, the fine weather encouraged me to drive on to Hornsea. Beverley is well located for Yorkshire’s East Coast, the city of Hull with its historic pubs in the old town and other attractions, and York is close by too.
Hornsea was busy but there was plenty of free parking in its back streets. I enjoyed a walk along part of the sea front and along the high street. It has some new buildings now and some very pleasant and trendy bars and cafes.
I left and headed along the coast road to Aldborough, which I recalled had a beach and is famous for its eroding coastline. It also had many more chalets, an amusement park and café, when I was a kid and a road running parallel to the beach. But in the 50 years or so since, that road has gone along with the above.
There remains some chalets, plus a pub, set about 100 metres from where the cliffs are today. How long before the Sellwood Arms succumbs to the waves? A few decades maybe? I then headed towards Hull, eventually arriving in Beverley, parking up in the hotel car park around 1pm. It was too early to check in, so I left my things and explored the town, calling in the nearby and recently opened Mowgli Street Food.
I had a mild chicken curry, bread, ranch slaw and mango lassi for about £25. It was very nice. I walked along the main street and headed to the new and impressive Flemingate shopping centre, which has a broad range of well-known names, plus bars and cafes.
Next was the famous ‘Nellies’, also known as the White Horse Inn. The nickname stems from the legendary landlady Nellie Collinson, who ran the venue about 50-odd years ago. She may be long gone, with the venue now owned by Sam Smith’s Brewery of Tadcaster, but the original gas lights, fireplaces, etc, remain.
A cider and a cherry beer hit the spot for the hot day. A retired mate of mine was a regular when he was at Hull University and a plate of pound notes and fivers bought enough Theakston’s Old Peculiar for a coach load of thirsty students for the night. I walked back to the conveniently-located hotel, checked in and was shown to my luxurious Feature room by friendly staff.
It was very impressive and had a fine view of the magnificent St Mary’s Church over the road. There was a homely settee and chairs and a very spacious bath with walk-in-shower, but I had a lie-down on the Super King Size bed, which came with quality white linen and many cushions. I dined at 7pm in a most spacious and elegant , starting off with mineral water and a bottle of decent and smooth malbec.
I began with Tempura king Prawns with crispy kale and Thai-style dipping sauce (£13.50). The kale had a wonderful chargrilled effect, the prawns were large and juicy and the sauce was great too.
As with the starters, there was plenty of choice, including salads, sharing plates, burgers, steak and fish, but I went for the Moroccan spiced lamb shank (£21.50), spiced couscous, mint and cucumber yoghurt, coriander oil, with a side of Garlic and Parmesan mash (£4.90).
The lamb shank was generous in portion and tender, falling off the bone, beautiful, but I had expected spicier. The mash was lovely and smooth, but it too could have been more garlicky. But that just might be my personal preference, as many of the diners, though of all ages in the busy restaurant that night, were elderly, and if they are like my mum and dad, they don’t like things too spicy.
I couldn’t eat it all, as I was saving room for pudding, choosing Strawberry Parfait, spiced granola, basil ice cream, basil and strawberry meringue and strawberry gel (£7.90). Beautifully and colourfully presented and very tasty too, a fine way to finish dinner.
Then, it was bedtime, sleeping well amid the indulgent comfort and the street being so very quiet. I also noticed a little light by the toilet, a useful detail so you always hit the right spot when making your nocturnal visits! For breakfast, I helped myself to a croissant, juice, and marmalade. I then enjoyed a freshly-made full grill breakfast, with flavoursome and tender sausage and bacon, plus scrambled eggs.
I could have had more but I left as stuffed as the night before. I was able to work well using the excellent wifi for a couple of hours, seated on a very comfortable chair, before it was time for a reluctant goodbye. Once more, Thwaites have done us proud, with a classy hotel, offering great comfort, delicious, well-priced food, served by friendly, efficient staff.
Understandably TripAdvosr awards an 'excellent' 4.5 stars and Google, 4.6 stars.
I loved it so much, I have suggested that I will try out their venues further afield, having also enjoyed their Yorkshire Dales hostelries so much last year..
