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With almost 80 years of history, the world's last seagoing paddle steamer offers an opportunity to experience sailing as it used to be with trips leaving from Portsmouth. On board the paddle steamer, there are plenty of places to sit. Perhaps the most interesting is the cosy lower bar, where the only view is the water gushing by the tiny portholes, powered on by the paddles.

As you settle into the comfy benched seating, all you can hear is the sound of the pistons powering you on. Another good spot is the engine room, where you can stand and watch the crank shafts spinning round and the con rods pumping up and down. Through the potholes opposite, you can see the wheel turning and the water being thrown up.



It's mesmerising! You could feel the heat, see the steam and smell the hot oil. And it was equally as interesting when it all came to a halt while we were stationary at Ryde. There is a dining room where delicious breakfast rolls are served until 11am then lunch including fish and chips from midday.

They're a jolly crew and the food is tasty. Also on the main deck is the Jeanie Deans Bar, named after Waverley's older sister, a paddle steamer that served on the Clyde from 1931 to 1964. The promenade deck has a tearoom at the stern and an observation lounge at the aft end.

Both were popular and it was difficult to find a seat. But we were blessed with a perfect day for sailing so we sought a seat outside. The top deck was packed but there was plenty of seating elsewhere.

By l.

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