There are few prints able to spark such a strong response as . Having fallen in and out of favour countless times over the past few decades, some have always loved them, others have a visceral aversion to them, and the rest simply vacillate between the two depending on how ubiquitous they are in that particular moment. Even among the seasoned fashion team, the opinion is still pretty much split down the middle.
But wherever you stand, there's no denying that are enjoying a renaissance this season, breaking free of their cutesy, twee and retro connotations and finally becoming not just widely accepted, but – dare we say it? – actually cool. The humble print's recent makeover can be traced back to the spring/summer 2024 shows, where the likes of , Maison Margiela, , and Balmain filled the runways with spots and dots in all their high-fashion forms. At the McCartney show, they were subtly added to cropped corsets, embroidered in crystals onto and featured on chic mini-dresses and silky alike; D&G put a sultry, screen siren-inspired twist on the typically prim print by using naked-esque sheer materials, while Balmain moved away from the usual black-and-white dots to serve fresh new colour combos instead.
Other brands, like , Prada and Miu Miu, meanwhile, have leaned into the polka dot's ladylike look, while adding their own twist. See and 's recent Wimbledon looks that hit just the right note of formal and fashion-forward, ' subversive supersize spots, or Louis Vuitton's gothic take on the trend featuring fishnet, as worn by . As ever, the celebrity seal of approval has served only to bolster the print's popularity.
Little wonder then that a number of high-street brands have gone big on the print in their summer collections. 's Sicily Spot dress became an overnight viral sensation and has long since sold out – though the brand's design director, Caroline Jackson, recommends 'checking back in case of returns' and promises to 'bring it back in a different colourway next season' – while has also noticed a spike in demand for the style. 'We're in the midst of occasion season at the moment and have seen a phenomenal response to polka dots,' says Lisa Illis, ' head of womenswear design.
'Our Polka Dot Maxi flew off the shelves when it launched last month, and most recently we launched a new in black and white, for which sales this week alone are up an amazing 90%.' Naturally, the ever-popular , and Sleeper, whose aesthetic is heavily inspired by vintage, have long been proponents of the print – but by cleverly updating a neckline, skirt shape or hem style, they have ensured their polka dot designs feel fresh rather than too Fifties. 'Admittedly, it’s hard to get polka dots spot on, but the payoff is plentiful.
I adore the fun and girlish nostalgia they bring, and have long worn them, especially in the summer months,' says Naomi Pike, 's Commissioning Editor and principal polka dot proponent. 'But, if the references are too retro, they can lean into the costume-y and characterful. More Minnie Mouse than the perfectly pitched Miu Miu girl we want to be.
.. Polka dots are all about what you wear them with, and in what silhouette.
Leave the volume behind and choose or dresses that cut close to the body, in dainty polkas where spots are never bigger than a five-pence coin. Extra points for see-through spots: consider them a note on delicate femininity against the more obviously sexy.' As ever, the line between chic and cheesy is all in the details – though as polka dots are an innately joyful print, it's important to have fun and play around with your styling of them, too.
Perhaps this latest iteration of the trend will be the one to finally swing the naysayers once and for all. Clementina Jackson is the Fashion Editor at Cosmopolitan and Women’s Health UK, covering everything from and catwalk trends to buzzy brands and the cult products you need to know about (and shop before they sell out). She also commissions first-person and long-form fashion features, oversees and tests out the latest industry innovations.
Clementina previously worked as Digital Fashion Editor at , during which time she profiled high-end designers, interviewed everyone from Priyanka Chopra to Jane Fonda, and launched the franchise to shine a light on size-inclusive fashion. During this time, she was also named as a PPA 30 Under 30 award winner. Having worked in journalism for more than six years, Clementina has also written for the likes of , , , and , covering everything from luxury travel, lifestyle and restaurants to photography and interiors.
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