Musée Guimet’s sculpture-stuffed halls became the chiseled scene for Peter Do’s Spring 2025 runway on Tuesday afternoon in Paris. With one of the largest collections of Asian art outside of Asia, the stoic destination was ideal for Do, a Vietnamese designer himself whose latest fashion thesis included a collaboration with Philip Huang’s Bangkok studio. Titled “Grounded,” the collection deconstructed typical summer tailoring with an influx of featherweight wool, silk and chiffon textiles, all of which required six months to produce in Huang’s Thailand outpost before shipping to Paris.
The color story—with oxblood, stone and midnight on the palette—drew from nature’s leaves, tree bark, fire and air. Each hue was made with centuries-old processes, in an effort to preserve traditional dying practices. “When is it that effort became embarrassing?” Mary H.
K. Choi pondered in Do’s show notes. “Everything is so smooth right now.
Glossy. Slippery. No seams.
Entirely devoid of texture. Weight. Friction.
Zero admissions of manual labor. Resistance. Work.
As if that would be mortifying.” Well, Do certainly put in the work this season, offering up his cult-favorite oversized cuts, exposed backs, garment-dyed “Vietnam” T-shirts and an all-new technical satin “168” uniform, named after the total number of hours in the week. The synchronized line was filled with modular silhouettes, all in black and marked with tattoo lines, Do’s soon-to-be IYKYK signa.
