Nottingham's food scene has seen a number of surprising departures in recent years, with locals becoming all too accustomed to saying goodbye to beloved eateries. However, the sudden closure of COSMO, the popular all-you-can-eat world buffet on Milton Street, still managed to surprise many. The shock was perhaps most keenly felt by the 58 staff members who arrived for work in early November, 2022, to find chains across the restaurant's front doors.
The prime location remained vacant throughout the winter months, but buffet fans need not despair any longer. Panda Mami, another all-you-can-eat world buffet chain with branches in Manchester, York and Chester, took over the former COSMO site in September, last year. Promising "luxurious surroundings" and more than 200 authentic dishes from around the globe, we couldn't resist trying out this new addition to Nottingham's culinary landscape.
The below review was first published on September 3, 2023. A particularly wet and grey Thursday afternoon might not be the ideal setting for a brand new city centre restaurant during its soft opening. However, after a warm welcome from the friendly staff at the door, we were immediately reminded of COSMO as we joined a very long queue.
Given that the restaurant had only just sprung into life for service, which is currently starting at 4.30pm on weekdays, it was certainly an impressive level of demand. The only noticeable difference from COSMO when it comes to the interior is a deluge of stuffed pandas.
Parents beware, these pandas are dotted all over the place and your children will undoubtedly be badgering you non-stop to take one home. Having eventually been seated, the layout of the restaurant barely altered from its COSMO days, it was time to dice with the devil. By that, I of course mean the ever-increasing use of a QR code in restaurants, now being used in Panda Mami to order drinks.
Technophobes can stride to the bar and order directly from staff, but the software at Panda Mami was surprisingly easy to grapple with. Something slightly harder to grow accustomed to was the price - £3.50 if you want a bottle of still water.
For just another 50p, you can get yourself a shot of Beefeater gin. It was therefore on drinks that the crucial differences between Panda Mami and COSMO emerged. First in the method of ordering and then in terms of price.
Diners at COSMO are able to purchase a soft drink that comes with unlimited free refills, but this option is not available here. After mastering the QR method of ordering a £3.50 Fanta, it was time to delve into the main event.
The buffet layout seemed familiar, mirroring that of COSMO's with many recognisable dishes. The return of bizarre food combinations chosen by some patrons was inevitable, given the freedom to mix and match flavours. One can only imagine what a seasoned chef would think of onion bhajis paired with a slice of Margherita pizza? In an attempt to bring some semblance of order to this culinary chaos, I opted for a starter plate of tempura vegetables, tempura sweet potato, and prawns in a spring onion and ginger sauce.
As with COSMO, the quality of the food is impressive, especially considering the vast array of dishes being prepared under one roof. With my appetite whetted, my next dish was a mixed vegetable curry with steamed rice and stir-fried mushrooms. Another delightful fusion of flavours, leading me to the age-old buffet dilemma - do I go for another 'main course' plate before venturing to the desserts? Considering the £20.
99 price tag, the answer was a resounding yes. This price rises to £21.99 on Fridays and Saturdays, though children under 140cm eat for half price.
Parents, don't forget your tape measure. The second 'main course' dish is a beautifully spiced dahl accompanied by vegetable samosas and salt and pepper prawns. The latter certainly lives up to its name in terms of saltiness, prompting the thought of ordering another drink if not for the price and the QR code.
Dessert comes in the form of three incredibly small items: carrot cake, lemon cheesecake and creme brulee served in an amusingly tiny egg cup. There's also a tub of that refreshingly cool ice cream that I'm convinced is the same brand used by COSMO. The resemblance to COSMO is undeniably the overarching theme of this restaurant.
Despite the stuffed pandas and new tech, it feels strikingly familiar. Those seeking something novel on Nottingham's food scene may be left wanting, but COSMO enthusiasts will be thrilled to find an old favourite has largely made a comeback. Considering how bustling Panda Mami was on this drizzly Thursday afternoon, and with numerous COSMO branches still open across the UK, it leaves me pondering one question.
Why did Nottingham's COSMO ever shut down in the first place?.
