U.S. authorities announced Friday the return of another artwork stolen by Nazis to the family of Fritz Grunbaum, the Austiran-Jewish cabaret performer and collector who originally owned it.
The return of "Seated Nude Woman," an expressionist drawing, is the latest such work to be handed back to the family of Grunbaum, who along with his wife Lilly was killed in the Holocaust, with their artworks sold off by the German regime and scattered, with some even going on to be displayed in museums. The drawing, by Austrian expressionist Egon Schiele, was returned at a ceremony Friday by another Austrian-Jewish family, who purchased the piece without knowing that it had been stolen. Both Grunbaum and his wife died in concentration camps during World War II.
Works by Schiele had been declared "degenerate" by the Nazis, with many of them confiscated and auctioned or sold abroad to finance the Nazi war machine. "Seated Nude Woman" turned up in the hands of a New York art dealer decades later, who then sold it to Ernst and Helen Papanek, two Austrians who had fled the Nazis in 1938. "The experience of the two families serves as yet another reminder of the evil and brutality of the Nazi regime," the Papanek family said in a statement.
"We believe that returning the drawing is the right thing to do." Arrested by the Nazis in 1938, Grunbaum, a critic of the regime, was forced to sign over his power of attorney to his spouse, who was then made to hand over the family's collection of hundreds of artworks before she was forcibly sent to a concentration camp. This drawing is the 11th piece to be returned to the Grunbaum family's collection.
"The recovery of this important artwork -- stolen from a prominent Jewish critic of Adolf Hitler -- sends a message to the world that crime does not pay and that the law enforcement community in New York has not forgotten the dark lessons of World War II," Timothy Reif, a relative of Grunbaum said. Since his election in 2021, Manhattan District Attorney Alvin Bragg has overseen the recovery of almost 2,100 antiquities stolen from more than 30 countries, valued at around $250 million. Fashion is a dynamic business.
Most apparel brands make at least two to four collections per year . While selling current seasonal collections, brands plan for the next ones at least a year in advance, identifying market trends and materials. The selling window is around three months, and unsold inventories represent financial loss.
Fast fashion companies introduce new lines even more frequently, reducing the amount of time needed to design, produce and market new items. Tech and fashion The fashion industry is familiar with experimenting with technological frontiers. Some of the most significant technological breakthrough are laser cutting, computer-aided design and more recently, the use of 3D printing in early 2010.
The fashion industry has experimented with basic AI and other cutting-edge technologies . One example is the Gucci Garden , the label’s collaboration with virtual world platform Roblox in May 2021 to celebrate the brand’s centennial. Non-fungible tokens (NFTs) are another area of innovation, as seen with the Dolce & Gabbana Genesi Collection in collaboration with UNXD, a digital luxury marketplace.
This collection sold for US$6 million, setting a record for NFT sales . Fashion companies also use blockchains for product authentication, traceability and digital IDs, including those integrated by LVMH/Louis Vuitton , product authentication and traceability. Additionally, companies have incorporated augmented reality into marketing and retail strategies to create immersive and interactive customer experiences.
Game-changing technology In 2021, fashion companies invested between 1.6 and 1.8 per cent of their revenues in technology .
By 2030, that figure is expected to rise to between three and 3.5 per cent. Generative AI could become a game-changer for the fashion industry, adding between US$150 and US$250 billion to operating profits within three to five years .
While the fashion sector has only started integrating AI, the opportunities and challenges it presents are evident across all business processes. Generative AI could help fashion companies improve their processes, bring their products to the market faster, sell more efficiently and improve customer experience. Generative AI could also support product development by analyzing large social media and runway show datasets to identify emerging fashion trends.
Estée Lauder Companies and Microsoft have teamed up to open an in-house AI innovation lab for identifying and responding to trends, informing product development and improving customer experiences. Designers could use AI to visualize different materials and patterns based on past consumer preferences. For example, the Tommy Hilfiger Corporation is collaborating with IBM and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York on the Reimagine Retail project , which uses AI to analyze consumer data and design new fashion collections.
Designers can also convert sketches and mood boards into 3D designs and 3D print them to speed up prototyping. Iris van Herpen, a Dutch fashion designer, used AI to imagine and execute the visuals of her fall/winter 2023 collection . NOWNESS looks at Dutch designer Iris van Herpen’s imaginative uses of AI.
AI and sustainability AI helps in creating more sustainable fashion practices by optimizing the use of resources, recycling materials and reducing waste through more precise manufacturing processes and efficient supply chain and inventory management. For example, H&M uses AI to improve its recycling processes , sort and categorize garments for recycling and promote a circular fashion economy. AI can improve operations and supply chain processes by optimizing inventory management, predicting sales based on historical data, and reducing overstock and stock-outs.
Brands like Zara and H&M already use AI to control supply chains , promoting sustainability by optimizing stock levels and reducing waste. Zara also introduced AI and robotics into their retail stores to speed up online order pick-ups. AI-powered virtual try-on solutions allow customers to see how clothes will look on them without physically trying them, enhancing the online shopping experience and reducing return rates.
Virtual try-ons are already a reality in digital companies, such as prescription eyewear retailer Warby Parker and Amazon . Another example is Modiface , acquired by French multinational personal care company L’Oréal in 2018, which provides AR-based virtual try-ons for makeup and fashion accessories. Virtual try-ons help buyers make decisions and reduce returns.
(Shutterstock) Effective campaigning AI can also deliver customized customer experiences. Some brands, such as Reebok and Versace , invite their customers to use AI tools to design products inspired by the brand’s feel and look. AI-powered tools can help marketing teams target and maximize the impact of their communication campaigns, potentially reducing marketing costs.
The fashion business includes everything from small companies to global chains, haute couture to ready-to-wear, mass market and fast fashion. Each brand must understand where AI could generate value for their business without diluting their brand identity. The biggest challenge, however, is to avoid homogenization.
Generative AI should not replace human creativity but create new spaces and processes. Creativity and innovation remain the soul and heart of any fashion brand, and AI should be a tool to enhance and support them. As fashion designer Hussein Chalayan has said, “ fashion will renew itself through technology, new fibers, new ways of making clothes .
” AI pitfalls Fashion companies should be prepared to manage the associated risks with new technologies, particularly regarding intellectual property, creative rights and brand reputation. One of the primary issues is the potential infringement of intellectual property related to training data. GenAI models are trained on vast design datasets, often containing copyrighted works.
This can lead to legal disputes over originality and ownership . A related risk is bias and fairness in generative-AI systems, which may present reputational challenges for brands that rely on the technology. The ambiguity surrounding creative rights in the age of AI is another concern.
It’s challenging to determine who holds the creative rights to a design, whether it’s the designer who conceptualized the idea, the developer who built the AI or the AI itself. This ambiguity can dilute the authenticity of a brand’s creative expression, potentially harming its reputation if consumers perceive the brand as less innovative or authentic. Luana Carcano , Lecturer, Beedie School of Business, Simon Fraser University This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license.
Read the original article . CONTINUE READING Show less Plastic microbeads, those tiny troublemakers found in the personal care products of the early 1990s to the late 2010s, wreak havoc on the environment. These minuscule bits, smaller than a sesame seed, escape the clutches of wastewater treatment plants, accumulating in oceans and rivers where they pose a threat to marine life.
Thankfully, soaps and scrubs containing plastic microbeads are impossible to find on today’s store shelves. In recent years, many countries have recognized these microbeads as a source of marine plastic pollution and banned them from personal hygiene products. Microbead bans make room for more environmentally friendly substitutes, allowing consumers to continue to experience that satisfying deep-cleaning feeling without harming the environment.
Instead of relying on synthetic plastics, research shows that a treasure trove of possibilities is hidden within biowaste. Once such gem is brewer’s spent grain (BSG), the leftovers from brewing beer. Inexpensive and abundant, BSG is used in animal feed, biogas production, compost and fertilizer.
More recently, BSG is used as a protein- and fibre-rich ingredient in crackers, breads and cookies. Our research has found that BSG is well-suited for use in personal hygiene products in the form of sustainable exfoliating microbeads . The Story of Stuff looks at plastic microbeads.
Chemical properties of cellulose Cellulose — the main molecule constituent in plant cell walls — is a key component of brewer’s spent grain. For over a century , scientists have prepared vast amounts of cellulose-based materials by transforming trees through a relatively straightforward chemical process. Trees are felled, debarked, chipped, pulped and bleached, then the cellulose that remains is shaped into its desired final form.
Cellulose fibers don’t dissolve in most solvents, and thankfully so, otherwise cotton t-shirts would be washed away in the rain and acetone-soaked tissues would melt instead of removing nail polish. In the cellulose-processing industry, few chemicals are available to overcome cellulose’s resistance. Most options are ill-reputed for their instability, high toxicity, high cost or poor recyclability .
However, sodium hydroxide dissolved in water in various concentrations provides a more sustainable option. Additionally, with sodium hydroxide, cellulose can be converted back into a solid through a simple neutralization reaction. This alkali-based process can yield pure cellulose microbeads, which were first prepared about a decade ago .
Cellulose pulp is dissolved in aqueous sodium hydroxide, then neutralized, one drop at a time, in an acid bath. When the acid bath is drained away, spherical cellulose-based microbeads remain. Fine-tuning the process Our research considered whether the abundance of cellulose-based biowaste generated from agri-food industries could generate microbeads.
With BSG as our cellulose-rich starting material and exfoliating microbeads as our goal, we started experimenting in the lab. Inexpensive and abundant, brewer’s spent grain is used in animal feed, biogas production, compost and fertilizer. (Shutterstock) BSG presented a challenge for creating pure cellulose microbeads due to the complexity of its composition.
Besides cellulose, BSG contains hemicellulose, lignin, proteins, lipids and small amounts of ash, all carefully intertwined to create different plant-cell structures. To overcome this obstacle, dilute acid hydrolysis loosens BSG’s cellulose and other fibers (hemicellulose and lignin). Coarse filtration washes simple sugars and proteins away, leaving behind a cellulose- and lignin-enriched pulp.
Next steps involve fine-tuning the sodium hydroxide solution. Only at specific temperatures and concentrations are sodium hydroxide solutions stronger than the bonds that hold cellulosic fibers together; this is true of more complex BSG-pulp as well. Our experiments revealed a narrow processing window where BSG pulp completely dissolved, aided by small amounts of zinc oxide.
Then, introducing these BSG-solutions, drop by drop, into an acid bath simultaneously achieved our shaping and solidification goals. After a few hours, the acid bath was drained away and smooth, spherical BSG-based microbeads remained. Finally, strength and stability testing proved that BSG beads had the necessary strength to hold up to their conventional plastic counterparts.
When incorporated into soaps, BSG-based microbeads performed better than other plastic microbead alternatives currently available, such as ground coconut shells and apricot pits. Plastic microbeads, once popular in the personal care products of the early 1990s to the late 2010s, are environmentally damaging. (Shutterstock) Creative solutions The transformation of brewery waste into exfoliating microbeads represents yet another step towards a more sustainable future.
By harnessing the properties of the cellulose and lignin present in BSG, this innovation demonstrates the potential of waste materials to contribute to sustainable solutions. This success ultimately underscores the importance of research and innovation in transitioning towards more environmentally friendly practices. Finally, it encourages exploring other similar opportunities to reduce our ecological footprint.
If it’s possible to transform brewery waste into a valuable component of personal hygiene products, just imagine what other opportunities may be found in the trash. Amy McMackin , Doctoral Researcher, Sustainable Food Processing, Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich and Sébastien Cardinal , Professeur en chimie organique, Université du Québec à Rimouski (UQAR) This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article .
CONTINUE READING Show less Sen. JD Vance's (R-Ohio) idea to "punish" Americans with higher tax rates if they choose not to have children isn't going over well — particularly with one MAGA-aligned social media personality. During a podcast segment with far-right activist Charlie Kirk in 2022 before announcing his run for Senate, Vance suggested that he would be in favor of alternate tax rates for Americans with children vs.
Americans who don't have children. "We need to reward the things that we think are good and punish the things that we think are bad. So you talk about tax policy, let’s tax the things that are bad and not tax the things that are good," he said.
"If you’re making $100,000, $400,000 a year and you’ve got three kids, you should pay a different, lower rate than if you are making the same amount of money and you don’t have any kids. It’s that simple." READ MORE: JD Vance suggested America should 'punish' people for not having children That remark didn't resonate with Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy.
In a Friday tweet, Portnoy posted the clip of Vance telling Kirk about his proposal, calling it " f—ing idiotic ." "You want me to pay more taxes to take care of other people's kids? We sure this dude is a Republican? Sounds like a moron," Portnoy tweeted. "If you can't afford a big family don't have a ton of kids.
" The Barstool chief — who created a sports-centric media empire that has unabashedly embraced racism and sexism that Politico credited with influencing the modern GOP — has a sizable audience of 3.2 million followers on X (formerly Twitter) and 5.2 million followers on Instagram.
He has also endorsed former President Donald Trump in the 2024 cycle, calling him "the perfect guy for the job" in a Fox News interview from January. Portnoy interviewed Trump at the White House in 2020 and endorsed his first campaign in August of 2015, before primary voting even started. "I am voting for Donald Trump.
I don’t care if he’s a joke. I don’t care if he’s racist. I don’t care if he’s sexist.
I don’t care about any of it. I hope he stays in the race and I hope he wins," Portnoy wrote at the time. "Why? Because I love the fact that he is making other politicians squirm.
I love the fact he says shit nobody else will say, regardless of how ridiculous it is." READ MORE: 'Obsession with controlling women': Harris calls JD Vance a 'creep' in scathing statement In the span of roughly a week, Vance went from being heralded as the next generation of MAGA to having to fend off accusations of committing a sex act with a couch and allegedly searching for explicit content involving women and dolphins . And while a presidential candidate selecting a running mate usually provides a boost to their polling, Vance has actually been a drag on Trump's approval rating since he was nominated.
The constant drumbeat of negative coverage surrounding Vance and his past has prompted some Republicans to question whether the Ohio senator was the best VP pick for Trump. MSNBC columnist Steve Benen said Vance's "weird" and "far-right" views have made him a "piñata" for Democrats and the media. Fox & Friends co-host Steve Doocy asked Trump on the program if the former president was still "100% behind" his running mate.
Benen found that comment revealing. "[T]he fact that a Fox host even felt the need to ask the question — a week after the party's national convention — was itself extraordinary. It was emblematic of a conversation in GOP circles that the party didn't expect to have," he wrote.
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