The decoration and finishing of a watch dial is an art form. At its most basic, it displays the time. At its most expressive, it conveys a specific style — feminine, masculine, sporty, dressy, even crazy — and serves as a canvas for artistic mastery.
It’s why dials are also called faces. They convey emotion and are central to a brand’s identity. For centuries, watchmakers and artisans have employed a wide array of decorative techniques on watch dials, from engraving and guilloche to painting and gem-setting.
But in 1963, brothers Gerald and Valentin Piaget had a different idea: They would let Mother Nature hold the brush. While dials were traditionally crafted from brass or gold, Piaget pioneered the use of natural stones. Vibrant colour has long been a Piaget hallmark, and stones like lapis lazuli, malachite, tiger’s eye weren’t just chromatically rich — they often came with delicate, unique patterns that enhanced their exclusivity and rarity.
Paired with the maison’s expertise in gold craftsmanship, these jewellery watches became beloved by many, including Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy. While some watch styles have become more subdued, stone dials have been making a notable comeback in recent years. Meteorite dials have regularly appeared in the catalogues of mega-brands like Omega and Rolex, while more obscure stones like chrysocolla and astorite have been featured by Ulysse Nardin and Jaquet Droz, respectively.
Even entry-level luxury brands such as Mido, Louis Erard, and Nivada have begun offering natural stone options. At the ultra-prestigious end of the spectrum are stone marquetry watches from Vacheron Constantin , Bvlgari, and, of course, Piaget. If you think it’s simply easier to let nature do all the work, you’d be profoundly mistaken.
While natural stones may not be as rare as gemstones, their qualities — such as colour, patterns, striations, banding, chatoyancy, and inclusions — are still crucial considerations. And finding the right stone is only part of the challenge. “After you find the perfect stone and the ideal area, you have to slice it to make the dial, which can be as thin as 0.
4mm," shares Guillaume Chautru, head of gemology at Piaget. “Then, you have to position it precisely on the dial, and the decisive moment of truth comes when you apply the hands. You need to apply just a tiny bit of pressure to the centre of the dial.
” According to Chautru, opal is the most difficult to work with. “Malachite and other stones are also fragile for sure, but opal is very tricky. There are many different hues and colours available, but with demand lately, it can be hard to find the perfect light blue stone.
And once you’ve found it, there may be a hidden flaw, or it can break at the last minute even when everything seems on track.” But the effort and waste involved are clearly worth it. “I think the renewed interest in stone dial watches can be attributed to the growing appreciation for their individuality and artistic expression,” says ZiYong Ho, senior international specialist at Phillips Watches.
“Each dial is inherently unique, showcasing the natural variations and beauty of the chosen stone. But collectors are also drawn to their nostalgic charm and vintage appeal, which reflect the craftsmanship and design sensibilities of a bygone era.” Ho notes a high demand for iconic models like Rolex’s Datejust and Day-Date.
Rarer still are Rolex’s sports models like the Submariner and Daytona with stone dials. Piaget’s vintage pieces from the early 1960s, too, are becoming increasingly hard to find. “Among the rarest and most sought-after dials are those made of bloodstone,” continued Ho.
“Also known as red jasper, it is a distinctive stone with a deep green colour and red speckles or veins resembling drops of blood.” Alexandre Bigler, vice president of Christie’s Watches Asia, adds that meteorite dials on watches like the Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster are similarly prized. “They’re valued for their cosmic origin and unique Widmanstatten patterns [the crisscrossing pattern found in iron-nickel meteorites] that cannot be replicated.
Stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite, jasper, and meteorite are not only rare but also difficult to source in the quality and size needed for watch dials,” adding that malachite dials from Bulgari and Piaget are among his personal favourites for their elegance. Notably, all Biver watches will continue to feature stone dials, such as obsidian, mother-of-pearl, anyolite, and sodalite. Said Jean-Claude’s son and brand co-founder Pierre in a press statement: “We chose these stones for their spiritual attributes, for the energy they radiate.
Sodalite is soothing and has a protective quality. Silver obsidian is about rebirth. It’s also a way to reconnect with the energy of the earth.
” Esoteric as that explanation may be, 24-year-old Pierre might be resonating with his own demographic. Bigler said: “At Christie’s, we see a significant influx of younger bidders who are tech-savvy and often discover these unique pieces through social media and online platforms. This younger demographic, which now makes up about 40 per cent of Christie’s watch clients, is drawn to the exclusivity and statement-making potential of natural stone dial watches.
” Whether it’s beauty, spirituality, or rarity you’re after, it pays to do your homework if you’re looking to build a collection. Bigler advises learning about the different types of stones and their unique characteristics, understanding their origins, and ensuring that the dial is free from cracks or significant imperfections, as well as verifying the authenticity of the watch. “Finally, stay updated on market trends and auction results.
Knowing which brands and models are currently in demand can guide your purchasing decisions. Collectors view them as not only beautiful timepieces but also valuable assets that can appreciate over time, with no alteration. ”.
