London has always loved oysters . They’ve been front and centre at the likes of Bentley’s, Sweetings and J Sheekey for more than 100 years, and are treasured in newer additions to town such as Robin Gill’s south London restaurant Darby’s and the Audley in Mayfair. Robin Hancock, co-founder of seafood merchants and restaurant group Wright Brothers, told the Standard not so long ago that demand for oysters has been growing in recent years and said Londoners are searching for a broader variety, too, across Britain, Ireland and France.
“Undoubtedly, we are seeing more of a demand in our own restaurants for our wide range of oysters,” he said. From century-old bars to modern venues, here are some of the best places to shuck and slurp in the capital. Over its 103-year history, this Mayfair oyster bar has shucked shellfish for the likes of Charlie Chaplin and Oscar Wilde.
Arguably the most famous establishment of its kind in the city, Bentley’s has been in the hands of Irish chef Richard Corrigan for years; he knows his way better than most around British and Irish seafood. The restaurant serves rock oysters sourced from Carlingford, Dorset, Jersey and Menai, with a seasonal native selection including Ireland’s coveted Galway oysters. 11-15 Swallow Street, W1B 4DG , bentleys.
org Robin Gill’s Nine Elms restaurant has oysters at its heart, both literally and figuratively. The chef installed an oyster bar in the centre of Darby's , which is inspired by Gill’s late father’s love of shellfish. The bar serves either Black Water Wild or Dooncastle varieties.
“We love the pairing of oysters with Guinness, as it’s a natural classic,” Gill told the Standard. “The malt flavour of the Guinness works with the mineral flavour from the oyster, so there is a lovely sweetness on your palate.” 3 Viaduct Gardens, Nine Elms, SW11 7AY , darbys-london.
com From South Ken to Spitalfields, Wright Brothers has spread its love of oysters all across the capital. Six different varieties are on offer across its five restaurants, ranging from Speciale de Claire oysters from Ile de Oleron in France to Ostra Regal oysters from Ireland’s Bannow Bay. Get them ceviche-style with lime and chilli, tempura-battered with bonito flakes, or baked with Pernod and seaweed butter.
The group also has its own signature Champagne with Piper Heidsieck – going so far as to travel to the Heidsieck house to decide on all the details, from dosage to the blend of grapes – which unsurprisingly pairs perfectly with shellfish. SW8, SW7, W1, E1, SE1, thewrightbrothers.co.
uk This celebrated Mayfair pub has been shucking oysters daily since 1952, but their popularity has far from waned. Rock oysters from Jersey and West Mersea are on the menu regularly, along with natives from Loch Ryan when available. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL , theguinea.
co.uk At this Covent Garden restaurant , oysters are delivered daily, with varieties on rotation. For those who wish to dive deep, take a look at the tasting notes that come with each: Black Water Wilds are “buttery, earthy” while Louët Feisser Selects are “sweet and briny”.
For a flavour overhaul, pick one of Oystermen’s hot options. Get them cooked with caramelised slithers of lardo and black pepper, or with ‘nduja, pickles and shiso. 32 Henrietta Street, WC2E 8NA, oystermen.
co.uk This West End stalwart has been serving fine seafood to theatre-goers for 130 years or more. Along with its fabled fish pie and penchant for caviar blinis, J Sheekey shucks oysters with relish and then serves them with Tabasco, shallot vinegar and hogwash, a bespoke condiment made with jalapenos and coriander.
Oysters on the menu year-round include Gillardeau, Morecambe Bay and Carlingford rocks, while native season brings in oysters from Galway and Loch Ryan. You can find the same selection at its more casual sibling Atlantic Bar . 28-32 St Martin's Court, WC2N 4AL, j-sheekey.
co.uk If you can’t get a spot at Claude Bosi’s two-Michelin starred restaurant at Bibendum, you could do worse than bagging a seat at the Oyster Bar instead. Housed inside Fulham’s stunning Michelin House, the adjacent seafood bistro serves oysters and Champagne in the most elegant of surroundings.
Varieties on offer include Dungarven, Morecambe Bay, Jersey, Oyster Regal and Gillardeau, along with Brittany-hailing Tsarkayas. Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, SW3 6RD, bibendum.co.
uk A chippie may not be the first place you look for oysters, but for a taste of the high-life on a budget, head to Sutton and Sons. This family-run fish and chip shop now boasts three locations in London, all of which sell oysters at a very pretty price. The Islington and Stoke Newington restaurants offer half a dozen Maldons for just £8.
95, while the Hackney Central spot offers them as cheaply as £1.50 per slurp. N1, N16, E8, suttonandsons.
co.uk It’s one of the oldest restaurants in London, and Wilton's has been a proud purveyor of oysters since 1742. It is a refined, beautiful restaurant that specialises in all manner of seafood, and oysters make for a perfect starter before the likes of Dover sole and dressed crab.
55 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LX, wiltons.co.uk Staying true to the East End penchant for a fish dinner, this modern Bethnal Green pub boasts a seafood stuffed menu.
Alongside traditional fish and chips, fish pie and cockles with vinegar, it also serves more contemporary appetites with lobster rolls and sauteed squid. A platter of Morecambe Bay oysters is also on hand, with shallot vinegar for drizzling. Devour alongside a “bucket” of Atlantic prawns and a bottle from its wide porter and stout selection.
143 Bethnal Green Road, E2 7DG, wellandbucket.com.
