Jaipur: As the monsoon progresses, Lalji Sand Ka Rasta market in the Walled City comes alive with shops showcasing fabrics featuring the distinctive wave-like patterns of Leheriya , a traditional tie-dye technique. The patterns this monsoon look livelier than before, say customers. With the demand for fresh and unique designs spurring a revival of this age-old craft lately, traditional patterns are increasingly found blending with modern aesthetics .
As its historical roots integrate with contemporary styles, Leheriya is currently witnessing sort of a renaissance. Historically crafted with natural dyes and intricate techniques, Leheriya is seen more and more in the dresses worn by Jaipur residents. “The charm of Leheriya remains unchanged among all generations.
But, as the times change, people want new designs. They love fusion designs that harmoniously blend traditional patterns with modern aesthetics,” said Deepak Agarwal, owner of a renowned textile store in the city. The market has embraced this change.
With the arrival of Sawan Somwar, the auspicious Mondays of the Hindu month of Shravan, sale of dress materials with Leheriya design is set for an upswing. Artisans are busy experimenting with new colour combinations and innovative designs, merging traditional Leheriya with contemporary elements. “Collaborating with boutiques has unlocked new opportunities for this traditional craft.
It is a beautiful exchange: we bring generations of expertise and authentic techniques, while the boutiques contribute fresh design ideas and access to a broader market,” said Kamlesh, a shop owner. The addition of intricate embellishments to Leheriya fabrics seems to be making it more appealing among the youth. Delicate sequins and skilled thread work enhance the undulating patterns, adding a visual complexity and glamour.
Besides, heavy borders featuring Gota Patti work, along with the traditional zari and Swarovski embellishments, create a striking contrast that appeals to modern tastes. “Newer experiments are being conducted with varying patterns, embellishments, and heavier, more intricate border work. But even with these more modern designs, many people still appreciate the older, original and more traditional designs.
They are timeless,” said Sandeep Kumar, a shopkeeper. Artisans are also integrating Leheriya with other traditional dyeing techniques such as Bandhani, Batik, and Lagdi Patta, creating hybrid designs that stand out for their visual appeal. The fabric base has also diversified, expanding beyond georgette and chiffon to include luxurious silks, indigenous Kota Doria, and versatile cotton-silk blends.
The presentation of Leheriya patterns has also evolved. Artisans now manipulate the thickness of the lines, ranging from thin ripples to bold waves. Some pieces feature a gradation of line thickness, providing an illusion of movement and bringing the fabric to life.
.
