Dodging mountain sheep as I made my way along the rugged coastline of the tiny island of Inishbofin, I stopped to take a deep breath and soak it all in. Having laughed and cried my way through The Banshees of Inisherin , the Oscar-nominated film starring Colin Farrell, Barry Keoghan and Brendan Gleeson, I had loved everything about it. The story, the characters, the magically eerie island ofInisherin.
.. I couldn’t get enough.
Though the place doesn’t exist IRL, it’s based on one of the three Aran Islands (Inismór, Inishmaan and Inisheer) the rocky isles in the mouth of Galway Bay – and after watching that movie, I vowed to to a trip there as soon as I got the chance. The Aran Islands form part of the Wild Atlantic Way: a tourism trail that snakes around the Ireland’s west coast: it starts in Derry, at the Inishowen Peninsula and ends in in County Cork. Within the Wild Atlantic Way, there are 157 discovery points, 1,000 attractions and more than 2,500 activities.
It took two years, but I finally I had the privilege of picking up part of this epic road-trip: starting in Galway, before heading to Inismór, and then Inishbofin, a a small island off the coast of Connemara. To view this video please enable JavaScript, and consider upgrading to a webbrowser that supports HTML5video Whether you’re a film buff like me who wants to see the Banshees filming locations, or you’re just interested in Irish hospitality, dramatic landscapes and a Guinness or two, you’ll want to make some notes. The 2,500-km route makes for a scenic road trip, passing charming towns and villages that offer a taste of Irish culture and hospitality.
Visitors can experience traditional music and dance, enjoy local food and drink, and explore the unique arts and crafts of the area. How to get to the Wild Atlantic Way The Wild Atlantic Way route passes through nine counties and three provinces, stretching from County Donegal’s Inishowen Peninsula in Ulster, to Kinsale, County Cork, in Munster, on the Celtic Sea coast. But chances are you won’t catch a flight from Gatwick straight to these destinations.
Your options are flights and ferries, which are thankfully short and inexpensive. From London you can take a flight to Dublin or Galway for as little as £27 with Ryanair and then get a car to the ferry port. Rossaveal port is 38km from Galway City and the ferry to Inismór takes around 50 minutes from the port, costing £33 per adult.
To get to Inisbofin, you can head to the town of Cleggan (about two hours from Rossaveal by car) where you can get another short ferry for £21. The ferries offer scenic 360-degree views of the islands. Taking the ferries also does mean you can take your own car over, and complete the road trip yourself.
Stop one: Galway We flew into Dublin then took a road trip to Galway. It was only a quick visit, but we still managed to find a few delights to enjoy in the famed city. Ed Sheeran’s famous song Galway Girl was, of course, shot in town with Saoirse Ronan, and the pub, O’Connell’s is definitely worth checking out.
The unassuming joint is much larger than it appears, equipped with an old sweet shop and pizza parlour out back by the beer garden. We also did a walking tour with Brian Nolan from Galway City Walking Tours who showed us around before we ended up at the newly opened restaurant – Daróg Wine Bar. Though I don’t drink, I have to say, this wine bar had the best Deep fried hasselback potatoes with a herb hollandaise that I’ve ever tried – I’d return just for the ‘tators.
Stop two: Inismór Inismór, the largest of the three Aran Isles, is a haven of Irish culture and Gaelic is still the spoken language. Because of its claim to fame to The Banshees of Inisherin, you’ll be able to pick up some film merch including fridge magnets, postcards and coasters of Jenny the donkey and the like. We also found some stunning art created by our tour guide and artist Cyril O’Flaithearta, who took us on quite the hike along the cliff fort of Dún Aonghasa.
Perilously perched on a sea-cliff, Dún Aonghasa defiantly faces the Atlantic Ocean and is over 3,000 years old, offering spectacular views of the cliffs of Aran. We trekked these cliffs before arriving at the famed Worm Hole. It might sound a little off-putting but it’s quite a sight to behold – the Worm Hole is a natural perfect rectangular shape forming a tidal pool.
In recent years the Red Bull Cliff Diving competition has taken place there but we definitely do not recommend jumping in to this water – the current will drag you into the formidable ocean. If you keep on hiking up, you’ll reach the thatched roof cafe, Teach nan Phaidi, where we fuelled up on delicious fish pie and a delectable carrot cake. There are shops in this area too, where you can buy some cozy sweaters, art, Irish jams and other treats.
It might not be a massive island but Inismór has plenty of other sights to see, including historic churches; Teampall Bhreacain (from the 8th Century) and Teampall an Phoill (from the 15th Century). In the West end of island, also the quietest part, you’ll see amazing views of the criss cross of stone walls and fields. The lighthouse can be viewed from the shoreline.
Animal lovers can also enjoy watching the seal colony, located on the coast road approximately one mile from Kilmurvey beach. One of my favourite parts of Inismór was visiting Aran Goat Farm – where we got to meet the goats (I miss you Sampson) and meet the farmer who showed us how the cheese is made. There are plenty of bike renting services around the island but bear in mind you may not be allowed to take them if you’re going to see the Worm Hole given its uphill rocky climb.
Stop three: Inishbofin Our next top was Inishbofin, another spectacular island, smaller than Inismór but with plenty of charm. Located 8km off the west coast of Connemara, the tranquil spot has a population of around just 180 people. The first thing we noticed was the turquoise water which could be mistaken for the warm waters of the Caribbean.
Here, we had a kayak session in the harbour, which is a tranquil haven, sheltered from the Atlantic winds. The blue skies and warm sun made this an excellent family-friendly excursion. All that kayaking worked up our appetite so we walked on over to The Saltbox, a outdoor restaurant opened by travellers turned couple, which offered one of the best lobster dishes I’ve ever had.
After lunch, we head off on a guided walk of the Island where we saw stunning views of the Connemara coastline, sandy beaches, an Iron Age promontory fort, Bronze Age field systems, a seal colony, and great sea arches. You’ll have to dodge some mountain-side sheep too. More Trending I went on a solo holiday and met a 60-year-old gay man who changed my life Forget Positano — this is the real gem of the Amalfi Coast This little-known seaside town has the UK's cheapest fish and chips and an 'iconic' beach This 'ain't Texas, but it is a Beyoncé-approved alternative for a Wild West adventure There aren’t many pubs and restaurants on this small island but each one has wonderful food and service.
For dinner, we stopped at The Beach Bar for some fresh seafood and soup. What does the week have in store? Your tarot horoscope reading for July 22 to July 28 There was another wedding on this island, showing just what a picturesque backdrop these hidden gem islands offer. Where to stay In Galway, we stayed at the charming Park House Hotel which is a stone’s throw to the city centre full of history and vibes.
Prices in June may be upwards of £200 for the night, depending on the room. In Inismór, we stayed at Aran Islands Hotel which offers stunning ocean-view chalets with deck spaces and outdoor furniture to take in the views. Family chalets are also available.
Prices range from £155 for a double room. This hotel is popular for weddings and has live music including traditional Irish music. Views from the Inishbofin House Hotel(Picture: Faima Bakar) For our last night, we stayed at the Inishbofin House Hotel which offers picturesque sea-view rooms, outdoor furniture overlooking the bay, and a sun room to lounge in.
Prices may be around £118 for a standard double room. Do you have a story to share? Get in touch by emailing [email protected].
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