If you enjoy the tangy punch of quick-pickled vegetables as much as I do, the next time you want fish for dinner, make it escovitch-style, and while you are at it, use catfish for a change. The Jamaican dish of spice-rubbed fish is served smothered with a sauté of sweet vegetables – onion, carrot and bell pepper – simmered briefly in vinegar, giving it a bright, “quickle” (quick pickle) effect. Although the vinegar is a defining element, the mixture is far from one-note – it is layered with heady and earthy flavors from Scotch bonnet (or habanero) pepper, thyme, garlic and ground allspice.
Red snapper is commonly used, but for this recipe I went with catfish, an especially sustainable and inexpensive option highlighted by The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch as their Super Green List fish of the month. This list of “seafood no-brainers,” is intended to steer us to the most nutritious and environmentally friendly choices. It also encourages branching out beyond the three types of seafood that tend to dominate our diets – shrimp, salmon and canned tuna make up more than half of our intake in the United States.
While they can certainly be good choices, it’s better to eat a wider variety to broaden our nutritional intake, help maintain biodiversity and add excitement to the plate. The catfish filets I bought were surprisingly inexpensive, at around $10 a pound, and they were delightfully mild-tasting. I hadn’t bought catfish in as long as I can remember, and I was happy to have it back on my radar with the assurance that it is an optimal choice (specifically, when farmed in the United States or caught in the Chesapeake Bay).
It was a win prepared in the Jamaican escovitch-style, aromatically spiced and piled with those tangy, crisp-tender vegetables. Thank you, Seafood Watch – we all need a nudge to branch out once in a while. From cookbook author and registered dietitian nutritionist Ellie Krieger 4 servings Total time: 30 mins In Jamaican escovitch, spice-rubbed fish is pan-fried, then served smothered with sauteed onions, carrots, bell peppers and hot chiles, which get a generous splash of vinegar to quick-pickle the vegetables.
Red snapper is traditional for this dish, but this recipe takes advantage of catfish – an especially sustainable (when farmed or caught in the United States) and inexpensive option. Storage: Refrigerate for up to 2 days. Ingredients 4 (5- to 6-ounce) catfish fillets (see Substitutions) 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, divided 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 red bell peppers, seeded and thinly sliced into matchsticks 1 medium white onion (8 ounces), halved and thinly sliced 1 large carrot (2 1/2 ounces), scrubbed, trimmed and cut into matchsticks 1 garlic clove, minced or finely grated 1/2 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper, seeded and thinly sliced, or to taste 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves, plus more for garnish 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar Cooked rice, for serving (optional) Directions Pat the fish dry.
In a small bowl, whisk together the paprika, garlic powder and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper until combined. Sprinkle the seasoning mixture over both sides of the fish. In a large (12-inch) skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering.
Add 2 of the fish fillets to the skillet, and cook until the bottom is browned and the fish releases easily from the pan, 3 to 4 minutes. Use a fish spatula to carefully flip the fish and cook until just cooked through, another 1 minute. Transfer to a large plate – the fish will continue to cook while it rests.
Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to the skillet and repeat with the remaining fillets. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet, followed by the bell peppers, onion, carrot, garlic, Scotch bonnet or habanero, thyme, allspice, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften slightly, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the vinegar, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the vegetables soften a little more but still retain some firmness, about 2 minutes. Divide the fish among individual plates or arrange on a serving platter. Top with the sauteed vegetables, and serve with rice, if desired.
Substitutions: Catfish >> snapper, tilapia, mahi mahi or other firm-flesh fish Dislike heat? >> Skip the hot pepper. Red bell peppers >> orange or yellow bell peppers. White onion >> yellow onion.
Fresh thyme >> dried thyme (use half of the amount called for). Rice vinegar >> distilled white vinegar. Rice >> another whole grain of your choice.
Nutrition per serving (1 fish fillet and about 1 cup vegetables) | 318 calories, 13g carbohydrates, 82mg cholesterol, 18g fat, 3g fiber, 25g protein, 3g saturated fat, 360mg sodium, 7g sugar This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice..
