Although Jeremy Clarkson's pub has recently commanded most of the headlines, his former colleague James May has his own venue in the heart of the Wiltshire countryside—and it's a hidden gem. I headed down to the tiny village of Swallowcliffe, whizzing past miles of rural land accented by scarlet autumn leaves to arrive at a truly remote location. The pub is barely more than 12 miles from Salisbury and is within an easy half-hour drive of Stonehenge, yet its isolation is otherworldly.
The pub and the church are the only two public buildings in the entire village. There was total silence - until I walked through the door of the Royal Oak, where scores of happy voices murmured away in the packed-out dining room. Fairy lights were already twinkling, reminding revellers that Christmas was just around the corner, while a roaring fire instantly created a cosy atmosphere.
I'd already queued for hours to be one of the first through the doors of The Farmer's Dog on Jeremy Clarkson's opening day back in August - and now I was about to see how former co-star and business rival James May's pub would compare. I kicked off with a plate full of Padron peppers as an appetiser, which was dry and underwhelming until the zesty lime and gochujang mayonnaise dip kicked in. The Korean chilli flavouring was just one indicator that, while Jeremy has an unwavering commitment to serving exclusively local British produce, James is blending in world foods and flavours for his own venue.
At midday, it w.
