I use a vitamin C serum almost every morning. It gives my skin a brightness and glow, some antioxidant protection, what I believe is a beneficial effect on pigmentation and texture, and it generally agrees with my skin. But frequently I meet women who want to use vitamin C skincare, but have found they can’t – at least not comfortably.
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Vitamin C – especially in the form of L-ascorbic acid, the purest, most evidenced but also least stable form in skincare – can be too punchy on sensitive skin types. But there are ways to deploy it more gently. CeraVe’s recently launched Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum (£29) uses L-ascorbic acid but in a manageable 10% concentration, and buffers it with the brand’s signature complex of ceramides to cushion and comfort the skin barrier.
Those who have all but given up on vitamin C may find they can use this with no redness or itchiness. Another way around the problem is via a different form of vitamin C. There’s increasing industry enthusiasm for tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a more stable analogue of L-ascorbic acid.
While tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (let’s go with “TA” for brevity) isn’t significantly gentler, it is oil-soluble and better absorbed, so can be added to skincare at lower concentrations to much the same effect as other ingredients at higher, more skin-aggravating levels. It doesn’t smell great (even for a vitamin C, which is notorious for making skincare stinky), but this should quickly dissipate after application. Sign up to Inside Saturday The only way to get a look behind the scenes of the Saturday magazine.
Sign up to get the inside story from our top writers as well as all the must-read articles and columns, delivered to your inbox every weekend. after newsletter promotion Paula’s Choice’s lightweight, skin-friendly Resist Anti- Ageing Ultra Light Antioxidant Serum (£41) is an ungreasy, hydrating, everyday serum that uses TA alongside endlessly helpful niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to soothe, hydrate and protect. It’s a great option not only for sensitive types, but for the many who find vitamin C heavy and greasy-feeling.
For more slip and slick on drier skins, Medik8’s C-Tetra Luxe (£59) mitigates the high-ish 15% concentration of TA with moisturising, softening vegan squalane and high-quality natural, fatty oils. It gives my skin instant bounce and glow. Skin Rocks’ The Antioxidant Serum is also pricey (£60) and stinky, but prevails by being silky, ungreasily moist, refillable and elegantly formulated with vitamin E-rich green tea, peptides and yet more antioxidants, making it a great all-rounder for after one’s morning cleanse and before SPF.
Its whiff is gone in the drinking of a morning cuppa..
