13.5 / 20 How we score Contemporary $ $$$ The whole world loves a courtyard. And this is a good one, with an ancient grapevine curling along its cast iron fence.
This thin triangular wedge of shady terrace has been here since Natalino’s opened on the same corner in 1962 – and so has the grapevine, which the current building lease stipulates must be protected and cared for. Never mind that the view is of a gritty back lane in Kings Cross. It’s a courtyard.
Stop complaining. We need all the outside dining we can get. While the gentrification of Kings Cross continues apace, Teddy – recently opened by Kirk and Nick Mathews Bowden of next-door Ezra – channels a little of the spirit of the precinct’s naughty past.
Inside, the dining room is painted a florid burgundy, and the 𝄒70s-𝄒80s vibe continues with a playlist of the Pointer Sisters, Prince, Whitney and Depeche Mode. The Mathews Bowdens’ previous restaurant on this site, Raja, closed before young chef Ahana Dutt could really make her mark, so this switcheroo could be seen as a response to economic constraints. In fact, all signs point to the fact that newcomer Teddy just wants you to have a good time.
Not too serious a time, and not a particularly long time, but a good time. The promotions go all week – on Monday you can BYO without charge, Tuesdays are $29 minute steaks, Wednesdays are $29 pasta and vino, etc. And did I mention the happy hour? It’s daily.
With a glorious disregard for any pedants out t.
