Platinum is experiencing a creative renaissance. Prized for its icy colour, which sits somewhere between white and silver, and its soft, light-refracting lustre, the metal’s popularity is once again on the rise. In Swiss watch workshops, platinum has given shape to new timepieces of bold, masculine proportions with minimal detailing.
From Geneva comes the Grand Complications Ref. 5236P-010 by Patek Philippe, which contrasts an opaline rose-gilt dial with a hand-polished platinum case, dotted with one white diamond. In Bienne, at the manufacture of Omega, the brand’s creative team has matched the platinum case of a new Seamaster 300 with a deep green dial cut from malachite and a corresponding ceramic bezel.
First unveiled at this year’s Watches & Wonders fair, the 1908 model by Rolex comes with a platinum case. As is Rolex tradition, the watch centres on an ice-blue dial, the colour-code of all Rolex platinum designs. Here, that dial has been patterned with a repeated Rice-Grain motif, using mechanical Guilloché engraving.
A new Vacheron Constantin platinum timepiece also debuted at Watches & Wonders. Limited to 50 iterations worldwide, the brand’s Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is entirely made from the metal, including its 42.5mm case, dial and buckles.
Even the stitching of the model’s midnight blue strap has been finished in platinum thread. “Platinum exudes understated luxury,” Lorenzo Maillard, part of watch zine , explains. “Since the ’20s, platinum has been the go-to for high-end pieces, starting with tiny jewellery watches, due to its diamond-setting ease and unique hue.
Brands like Cartier and Patek Philippe soon embraced it for exclusive watch designs.” Like Patek Philippe, Cartier continues to innovate with platinum. Cue the maison’s new takes on its heritage models.
Last year, Cartier presented a new platinum version of its Tank Normale watch; this year, the organic shape of a Tortue watch has been modelled from the metal. Named after the French word for tortoise, the Tortue was originally released in 1912. And platinum has also been re-embraced in jewellery ateliers around the world, used for gems with sculptural appeal.
“I love working with platinum because it is resistant to change,” says Brent Neale Winston. The designer, whose company is headquartered in New York City, this year released bracelets, rings, and pendant necklaces in geometric shapes cast from platinum and set with round-cut diamonds. All form part of her Hopscotch collection.
“Platinum’s charm is its durability, and strength,” Winston continues. “I also am attracted to its lovely soft shade of grey. Platinum is much heavier than say silver, which gives any piece you make with it a certain weightiness that I prefer in jewellery.
” Francesca Amfitheatrof is another fan. Each piece of Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds, her latest high jewellery collection for Louis Vuitton, is made from the metal. An ode to 19th century Paris, the collection includes one-of treasures such as the Frequence and Optimisme necklace.
For more platinum high jewellery, turn to Chanel’s new Sport collection and Van Cleef & Arpels. Cloaked in white diamonds, the master jeweller’s À Cheval line comprises a chunky bracelet and transformable earrings. Elsewhere, the brand’s Estelle and Fleurette wedding bands are also made from platinum.
Throughout, platinum and white diamonds make for a striking combination, explored by independent designers - among them, Jessie Thomas, Liv Luttrell, and Rachel Boston - and blue chip brands, including Tiffany & Co., Repossi, and Lugano. Tasaki makes the case for platinum paired with milky white pearls.
Rachel Boston casts sculptural rings and other pieces from recycled platinum. “Like most precious metals, platinum can be recycled without its quality deteriorating in the process, which is why we work with recycled platinum or metal from heirloom pieces, rather than using newly mined material,” she explains. “Platinum is a wonderful metal to work with, and especially suited to fine jewellery with its gorgeous cool tones and durable properties.
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