Celebrations without invasive camera flashes? So discreet, even the locals don’t realise it’s there, this restaurant is a find. You’ll know you're in the right place when you see the chauffeurs standing in clusters outside late at night, waiting to ferry their paparazzi-dodging clients back home. Set in an end-of-terrace townhouse in a sidestreet off the King’s Road, Kutir feels like a members’ club – you ring a doorbell to get in – with prettily decorated dining rooms of pistachio-green panelled walls and antiqued mirrors, where small parties are the norm.
It’s as lovely to look at as it is to eat in, with food that’s refined, but not flashy or fussy. At the helm is chef Rohit Ghai, who in a former role became the world’s first Indian chef to earn a Michelin star within one year. For Diwali, he has created three new set menus: Signature, Vegetarian and a game-laden Hunter’s (grouse, partridge, guinea fowl and venison).
Seabass moilee is a standout, coconutty and fragrant with perfectly executed punch, and textures combine beautifully in plates of crispy potato cake and crunchy chicken harissa – all paired with expertly picked wines (including Léoube rosé, from the Bamford’s chateau). Meat dishes are flavourful and satisfyingly rich; seafood has just the right amount of spice; and just when you think you’re too full for pudding, sweet fried malpua pancakes with berries and saffron change your mind. Inspired by the army mess of , a riotous night.
