HYDERABAD: It takes lots of talent and creativity to become a master weaver. Weavers are among the artisans who keep the art of handlooms shining. Handlooms are a significant part of our heritage, and preserving them is a responsibility for every citizen.
This art, which requires hours of meticulous work to create fine clothing, is often overlooked. Despite our discussions about handlooms, many of us still opt for fast fashion. To understand the challenges faced by weavers in preserving this legacy, CE spoke with Bhaskar Vanam, the master weaver at Bhaskar Handlooms, on the occasion of National Handloom Day on August 7.
With nearly 37 years of experience in the handloom industry and weaving pattu sarees, Bhaskar recalls the beginnings of his career. “My native is at Choutuppal, but we have been in LB Nagar for the past 10 years. I started weaving at the age of 12.
I quit for five years due to industry challenges, but then returned, and we have been working in LB Nagar ever since.” Describing the types of weaves produced at their LB Nagar workstation, Bhaskar says, “We mostly create Ikkat weaves using Bangalore silk and mulberry silk. We make Ikkat sarees under the brand name Pochampally Ikkat sarees, along with dupattas and lehengas.
I have 30 members working with me.” Bhaskar highlights the necessity of evolving skills to survive in the industry. “Nowadays, the work has doubled.
Every design needs to be new to attract interest. Even if a design becomes old, we must modify it. Currently, Patola designs are trending.
” Weavers work tirelessly to produce beautiful sarees, often struggling to earn a living wage. “A weaver can make about three sarees a month, taking a week to complete each one. From obtaining the raw material to finishing the saree, the process is labour-intensive,” Bhaskar explains.
“We get raw material from Bengaluru, bleach the yarn, and then bobbin it. We use a machine similar to the one shown in the movie ‘Mallesham’ to put the yarn together. After graphing the design on the yarn, we go through the tying and colouring processes.
” The younger generation is losing interest in weaving due to financial instability. “The youngest weavers here are aged 45 and above. There are no young individuals coming forward to take up weaving as a profession.
Even we do not encourage our kids to join this work because it lacks financial stability. A weaver earns about 10 to 15 thousand rupees a month, which is not sufficient,” Bhaskar stresses. On the pricing and selling of sarees, he says, “We sell to wholesalers.
The price depends on the work done on the saree.” Bhaskar mentions the lack of government support. “When the BRS government was in power, there were schemes that supported us.
These have stopped with the new government. If these schemes were still available, they would have helped us in the future.” Reflecting on the importance of handloom, Bhaskar says, “In the past, artisans felt proud of their skills and could make a living from them.
Now, there is no financial stability, and people are moving away from this art form. We work 10 hours a day, striving to provide for our children’s needs and education.” He adds, “Weavers do not get to collaborate with designers.
If the government bought directly from us and revived the weaver’s society, it would be beneficial. There have been no elections for the society in the past 10 years.” To preserve this art, Bhaskar suggests, “If people and government employees take the initiative to wear handlooms, it could help.
” Bhaskar emphasises the physical demands of weaving. “We have no choice but to work long hours. Even if there are defects, we sell the sarees for a lesser amount.
” He appreciates his hardworking team, mentioning, “Kumar Dussa, Ramanarsaiah Cheripally, Nagabhushan Madunala, Ravi Atipamula, Venkatesh Karnati, and Ramulu Karnati work on the weaves and designs. Nagamani, Saroja, Vijaya, and Likitha handle the dyeing and bleaching. They all give their best at work.
” On National Handloom Day, Bhaskar’s message to the public is, “Encourage handloom and protect the handloom artisans.” The concern among weavers is that the next generation will not continue this art form, potentially leading to its disappearance..
