Tuesday, August 27, 2024 In the southern French Alps, high above the Champsaur Valley, the practice of transhumance—driving animals from winter valleys to high summer pastures—is still very much alive. The experience of being surrounded by thousands of sheep, led by a solitary shepherd who will tend to them for the next four months, offers a rare glimpse into a tradition that connects deeply with the region’s mountain culture. However, this vivid encounter isn’t taking place in the pastures but within the modern confines of Cinémathèque, a new museum in the town of Gap, where visitors can immerse themselves in this ancient practice through a virtual reality (VR) headset.
The southern French Alps, stretching from Grenoble to Provence, are quieter and more traditional compared to their northern counterparts. Cinémathèque provides a high-tech introduction to the area’s rich mountain heritage, but the allure of experiencing it firsthand is undeniable. A family’s journey through this landscape, guided by the local outdoor specialist Undiscovered Mountains, combines a stay at La Grange des Écrins—a guesthouse nestled in the valley—with ventures to mountain refuges, offering a condensed form of transhumance.
La Grange des Écrins, a guesthouse named after the surrounding national park, encapsulates the essence of the region. With its vibrant textiles and a pool that opens up to breathtaking views, this ancient farmhouse run by Jean Mellot and his Taiwanese wife, Meg Liu, allows visitors to reconnect with nature in comfort. Over meals featuring local delicacies like lamb chops and Alpine cheese, Jean introduces guests to the local shepherding culture, where the return of wolves—after their extinction in France in 1992—has become a hot topic.
Shepherds are now adapting to this new challenge, as the southern Alps hold the highest density of wolves in the country. The following day, while the rest of the family engages in activities such as river paddling, rock climbing, and trail biking near Ancelle, one member opts for a more tranquil experience, hiking around Prapic. This village, situated at the far end of the valley, is surrounded by towering peaks, larch forests, and meadows dotted with orchids.
The hike to the Saut du Laïre waterfall offers a peaceful escape, with the only company being the playful marmots and the occasional shepherd’s cabin. This quiet plateau, though serene in the spring, will soon be bustling with sheep as the shepherds arrive to tend to their flocks. At the Maison du Berger, a shepherding museum and education center in the nearby Champoléon Valley, visitors learn about the resurgence of shepherding, particularly among women.
The new generation is embracing this traditional lifestyle, adding skills like wolf-handling to a repertoire that already includes navigation, land management, and species protection. Before venturing further into the mountains, the family indulges in local culinary specialties at the Auberge des Ecrins. Dishes like tourtons—fried pastry pillows stuffed with mashed potatoes—and oreilles d’âne—oven-baked pancakes layered with wild spinach and cheese—highlight the rich flavors of the region, deeply rooted in the work of the shepherds and the high-altitude grazing that shapes the local produce.
The journey continues to Refuge du Tourond, one of the 42 refuges in the Hautes Alpes. Run by the charismatic Stéphane Chevalier, this family-friendly refuge offers a rustic yet comfortable experience with wood-floored dorms, viewing terraces, and even amenities like showers and draught beer, thanks to solar panels. The refuge, once a disused summer chalet, now serves as a welcoming haven for hikers, with meals featuring local favorites like pea soup, bacon pie, and bilberry tart.
The following morning, over breakfast, Stéphane shares the logistical challenges of running such a remote refuge. Supplies are brought in by helicopter at the start of the season, with fresh produce delivered weekly by a friend who hikes up with the goods. Despite the remote setting, the refuge manages to offer a level of hospitality that feels like a magic trick, seamlessly blending tradition with modern comforts.
The unique experiences offered by the southern French Alps, from the preserved practice of transhumance to the immersive hospitality of mountain refuges, have a broader impact on the global travel industry. These remote and traditional experiences are increasingly attracting travelers seeking authenticity and a deeper connection with nature, which could influence tourism trends worldwide. The adventure concludes at the Gîte de l’École in Dormillouse, a village that has been permanently inhabited and is only accessible on foot.
The village’s ancient chalets, set against a backdrop of serrated peaks and cascading waterfalls, tell a story of survival and resilience. With its origins dating back to human activity 18,000 years ago, Dormillouse has seen various waves of inhabitants, from Middle Ages miners to Vaudois Protestants escaping persecution. Today, about 20 people live in Dormillouse, and the refuge, housed in the old school, is a bustling center for tourists.
Run by Sarah Ginty and her French husband Paul, the refuge preserves the communal spirit that has defined the village for centuries. The shared experience of dining together, particularly over local delicacies like bilberry tart, creates a unique bond among visitors, reflecting the enduring hospitality of the region..
