14.5 / 20 How we score European $$ $$ “Does William Street really need another wine bar?” That was my immediate reaction when I heard news that Margot’s – a wine bar and urban cellar door – was opening in Northbridge in early 2023. Harsh? Perhaps.
Yet I’d argue that my question falls under the definition of fair comment, too. After all, Northbridge’s main artery isn’t exactly wanting in terms of places to drink wine. The Brisbane and William street intersection is already home to Wines of While and Vincent, plus Tom’s Providore & Wine Bar is an easy stroll away.
Pull focus to the Horseshoe Bridge end of William Street and you’ll find No Mafia and Shadow Wine Bar: two more establishments crushing big-time on vino. (At the time the Margot’s news broke, fried chicken shop Southbird was still operating as North Bird Dining Room and Wine Store, too.) As it turns out, when Margot’s owners and designers Rebecca Frost and architect Barry Baltinas opened their 120-person space in August, wine was just one part of the story.
Because while you can order from sommelier Caitlin Tormay’s considered local and global glass pours, Margot’s also slings very sharp cocktails. Then again, we expect great cocktails from any venue operated by Sesh Mafia (Shui, Papi Katsu) the raffish hospitality collective that counts heavyweight bartenders such as Ben Tua, Phil Weber and Eoin Kenny among its partners. Under the watch of bar manager Nicola Herbert, the martinis are brisk.
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