Weekends bring life to the century-old Ban Mai Market in Chachoengsao, where local vendors set up stalls to offer a wide range of local delicacies like chaenglon (grilled fish cake), galorgee (rice dumpling topped with black and white sesame), kanom tuay (coconut rice custard) and hoi jo (deep-fried crab meat rolls) that evokes a rush of nostalgia. Standing along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, meandering through an intricate network of classic wood shophouses can whisk visitors back to the reign of King Rama III when Chinese migrants turned this neighbourhood into a bustling trading hub. Surrounded by plantations of pineapple, sugar cane and vegetable fields, Chinese marine merchants gathered here to exchange both wild and agricultural goods.
After the original riverside market burned down in 1904, this one was built in its stead as a memorial to the old Chinese community. Around 60 years ago, it was home to more than a hundred gold jewellery shops, eateries, coffee shops, Thai bakeries, barbershops, fashion boutiques, drug stores, gambling and opium dens as well as blacksmith workshops. Later, it became stagnant and was abandoned as transportation switched from the river to the roadways, and the younger generation relocated to midtown and other big cities.
In 2004, the community revived this market to attract holidaymakers and emphasise the allure of a waterfront lifestyle. Here, visitors can also visit two Chinese shrines and worship local gods and goddesses for luck, good health and wealth. The 100-year-old Ban Mai Market.
One of the inhabitants has transformed his home into a living museum, displaying a collection of Coca-Cola mementos as well as old Japanese-style porcelain kitchenware. If shoppers need something light, tastefully furnished cafés are the perfect spot to enjoy breathtaking views of the verdant mangrove forest and the river while savouring good coffee and local pastries. Located a five-minute walk from the old market, Wat Chin Pracha Samoson (Leng Hok Yi) was erected in 1906 to represent the dragon of fortune.
According to feng shui principles, this area is supposed to resemble the dragon's belly, with its head situated at Wat Mangkon Kamalawat in Bangkok and its tail at Wat Mangkorn Buppharam in Chanthaburi. Focusing on graceful simplicity, papier-mâché statues of Four Heavenly Gods serve as guardians at the marble-like entrance as revered papier-mâché statues of three principle Buddhas sit in a main hall, where worshippers can pray for wealth, success, good health and intelligence. Inside, the temple also houses a number of Chinese deities such as Cai Shen (the God of Wealth), Tai Sui (the God of the Age), Hundred Handed Guan Yin and Phra Bhaisajyaguru (Medicine Buddha).
A short distance away, devotees may continue their pilgrimages to Wat Uphai Phatikaram, which was built in 1906 by Long Zhu Hi and Long Zhu Daeng. A year later, King Chulalongkorn visited the temple and donated 200 baht to rebuild the main hall and refurbish a replica of Phra Trai Rattana Nayok (Luang Pho To) from Wat Phanan Choeng in Ayutthaya. The statue prompted people to pray for wealth and good health since it has medicine in its hands and a golden dragon-like stucco on its base.
Wat Chin Pracha Samoson boasts ancient papier-mâché statues of Four Heavenly Gods and three principle Buddhas from China. Not far away, the Eight Immortals Shrine is another great place for Chinese devotees to learn more about their cultural heritage. With a budget of more than 200 million baht, it was the idea of the Sawang Srattha Thammasathan Foundation to transform the 24 rai of fruit and vegetable plantations into a peaceful sanctuary where local worshippers can perform various annual rituals to preserve their Chinese traditions.
Established in 2011, the shrine is modelled after Beijing Palace and has rendered applied Teochew-style architectural designs through a series of low-bas relief murals that recount the epic of Three Kingdoms, Chinese myths and the Eight Immortals. The 1st floor is devoted to Buddha Maitreya, who bestows wealth, prosperity and success upon pilgrims. On the 2nd floor, visitors can write down their names and birthdays on a paper to beg for protection from the Eight Immortals, Guan Yin, Hua Tuo and Tai Sui (the God of the Age).
Here, the walls are covered with vibrant three-dimensional paintings that illustrate a group of highly revered deities, Chinese lifestyles and some scenes from old China's villages, creating a beautiful setting for selfies. Outside, Maitreya Bodhisattva Park is home to a group of 18 Arhats who watch over the towering gold sculptures of Buddha Maitreya, Guan Yin and Jigong. Leaving the former commercial centre, I headed out to Ban Pho district and experienced life as a rancher at Mini Murrah Farm.
Run by Ranchuan Hengtrakulsilp and her family, it was launched in 2013 as a replica of Thailand's first buffalo dairy farm, with an aim of educating people of all ages about organic farming for sustainable living. Set against a backdrop of green plantations and rice fields, families may congregate in a courtyard to watch animals go about their daily lives and to feed a huge number of goats, bunnies and pigs. It's a quick stroll to a buffalo pen where staff members demonstrate how to raise buffaloes and collect their milk, which has nearly double the calcium and protein content of cow and goat milk, but lower cholesterol.
Exploring the farmland, visitors may discover more about integrated farming. Riding a mudslide is becoming a popular choice for kids looking for hands-on experiences, while those with more time can enjoy creative programmes that include cultivating vegetables, farming rice, making salted duck eggs, and preparing chocolate and pizza with buffalo milk and cheese. The Eight Immortals Shrine draws inspiration from Beijing Palace.
To boost energy during the day, Mini Murrah Farm restaurant and Moo Moo café offer a blend of Thai and Western dishes, snacks, drinks, desserts and ice cream made from buffalo dairy rather than cow milk that are ideal for those who are lactose intolerant. Murrah pasteurised and sterilised milk and yoghurts are also available. After winding through a labyrinth of massive orchards and ditches, my journey came to an end at Uncle Daeng's Fragrant Coconut Garden, which is nestled in Bang Khla district.
It spans a 60 rai plot of land and belongs to Maneerat Itayopaskul and her family, who have learned to capitalise on the growth of tourism to promote their innovative agricultural practices and way of life in the community. "The Hokkien community is in this neighbourhood. My grandpa moved from China and built his house close to the Bang Pakong River, as it's a great spot for cultivation.
Focusing on integrated agricultural methods, he began raising betel palms, poultry, ducks and pigs. Then he realised that this place had the perfect soil for producing aromatic coconuts because it was surrounded by both freshwater and brackish water," Maneerat said. Wat Uphai Phatikaram houses a replica of Phra Trai Rattana Nayok from Wat Phanan Choeng in Ayutthaya.
"A coconut palm tree takes four years to grow and can survive for 20-30 years. Our fruits received multiple accolades for their fragrance and sweet juice. As a result, The Mall, Siam Paragon and The Emporium have chosen to offer our coconuts for two decades.
" Seven years ago, Maneerat turned her home into a restaurant and learning centre. It's only open between November and February when customers may feast on delectable local cuisine under the shadow of 2,000 coconut palm trees. Using family recipes, she creates a seasonal menu that features delectable dishes like pad Thai, grilled prawns, kaphrao with young coconut, coconut chiffon, coconut flakes, coconut pudding, coconut jelly and fresh coconut milk.
Recently, she launched a new café where visitors may come on weekends and sample a variety of beverages like coconut coffee, coconut iced black coffee, coconut green tea, coconut pink milk and coconut cocoa. Mini Murrah Farm. The 100-year-old Ban Mai Market is on Suphakit Road, Muang district, Chachoengsao.
It's open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9am-5pm. Visit facebook.com/100-year-oldBanMaiMarket (in Thai).
Mini Murrah Farm is at 79/4, Ban Pho district, Chachoengsao. It's open daily from 9am-6pm. Admission is free.
Call 081-819-2819 or visit minimurrahfarm.com . Uncle Daeng's Fragrant Coconut Garden is in Bang Khla district, Chachoengsao.
The new café is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9am-4pm. Call 085-082-0728 or visit facebook.com/unclered.
coconut . Uncle Daeng's Fragrant Coconut Garden..
