As much as I enjoy exploring menus and discovering new items that become all-time favorites, sometimes it’s great to just sit back, relax, and allow your dining experience to be curated. These experiences can be gastronomic adventures. It was with this in mind that I found myself pulling up a seat at the table at Fish by José Andrés at The Cove Atlantis.
I left myself in the hands of David Vegazo, general manager, food and beverage restaurant and the chefs at Atlantis’ flagship seafood experience where they incorporate a variety of ingredients in preparations that range from simple and flavorful to innovative and creative. They opted to take me on a deep dive into offerings from the sea – quintessential Bahamian favorites conch as well as spiney lobster; Caribbean grouper; and lion fish, an invasive species that is quite delicious that the restaurant is working to help eradicate. It’s served in dramatic fashion – fried whole! I ran through an innovative meal that focused on Bahamian produce with a Spanish twist.
As it is Caribbean spiny lobster season this delicacy is showcased in every way possible on the menu — fried lobster tail, lobster salad, lobster roll and that’s just among the starters. It’s always a showstopping treat when a whole grilled lobster makes an appearance. I was started off with one of my all-time favorite items, the Tuna Nikkei which features a soy-cured egg yolk, nestled amongst a mound of diced tuna with ponzu, puffed quinoa, avocado, jicama and red onion served with plantain chips.
This is one of those dishes that I like to have fun with, breaking into the yolk and swirling the ingredients together, which I then scooped with plantain chips (you can use a fork if you so choose). Golden, crisp, seafood croquetas – a bechamel fritter made with Caribbean seafood and topped with a sweet trout roe – were light and savory, and are actually a nice simple start to a meal. It was then that I began to notice the seafood trend and realize that this was going to be a deep-sea dive experience.
I had absolutely no problem with that as beautifully composed seafood dishes made an appearance – conch fritters, José’s mini lobster roll, sauteed shrimp mojo negro, grilled conch, grouper, octopus, crab cakes, and lion fish. José’s mini lobster roll is beautiful. Sweet butter-poached lobster with pickled celery is hit with Old Bay seasoning and nestled in a roll is placed before you and finished tableside with mayo espuma for a lighter touch.
In a touch of whimsy, it is served with house-made potato chips that you won’t be able to resist. I don’t know if I would have ordered the sauteed shrimp mojo negro or not – but I would have been tempted by the thought of the sweet aged black garlic; but the decision was out of my hands – thank God. This dish was stunning! At Fish they have taken a Spanish classic, garlic prawns, and tweaked it with a Caribbean/Bahamian take with fermented black garlic, a little spice from chili de arbol and the sweetness of black garlic for amazing umami flavors.
Actually, this is now one of my new favorite dishes on the menu. There are a couple of things sacred to a Bahamian, that you don’t mess with — one of those items is the conch. You do not mess with conch! Chef José messed with the conch in both the grilled version and his fritters.
Gasp! Actually, in the many times I’ve visited Fish I’ve seen the conch on the menu, and never ordered it. But with all decisions taken out of my hands, I found placed before me, both Chef José’s grilled conch with chimichurri (a bright, herbaceous flavored sauce that I have always thought of in conjunction with grilled meats) and his creamy center fritters. I’m not exaggerating in saying I was left surprised and stunned by the grilled conch.
The chef took a risk putting conch and chimichurri together with a little lemon, finished with Maldon salt and garnished with arugula, but his risk works. The conch is incredibly tender and it paired well with the bright chimichurri sauce. This is a must-have dish.
Actually, Vegazo says despite knowing he may get some pushback from Bahamians, he always encourages them to try the grilled conch, because he knows they will be surprised. As for the conch fritters, one of the first things Chef José fell in love with when he visited The Bahamas, to the extent that he offers fritters on many of his restaurant menus in the United States, one of the things he ensured he did was stay true to ensuring a conchy fritter that is flavorful. The creamy center is just that little extra delightful surprise.
The crab cakes are a Fish specialty, and to die for. They do these cakes differently. First, they are pure crab meat with practically no fillers, and they’re not fried, but instead made a la plancha (grilled) and served with a shaved Brussel and carrot slaw with a delightful tangy mustard seed dressing.
Where the most changes appear are among the entrées where Bahamian produce is showcased amongst locally sourced seafood one being the grouper, Josper roasted with passion fruit sauce, brown butter and avocado; this was a swap from the salmon that was previously on the menu. It’s paired with a grilled avocado on the side. Whole fried lion fish, when available, makes for a beautifully striking presentation.
It’s an item that Chef José encourages fishermen to catch to help eradicated the invasive species out of Bahamian waters, at the same time recognizing the deliciousness of the meat. Of course, the chef who was a pioneer of Spanish tapas in the United States does not forget his roots, and he ensures people get some of the Spanish culture among the offerings. And the menu reflects this blend of both cultures and the storytelling behind it all, which Vegazo said is important to Chef José as a proud Spaniard.
That meant a taste of Pulpo a la Gallega – Josper roasted octopus with roasted potatoes, aioli, pimentón and endives – a dish that is based on a Spanish classic from the northwest of Spain. The classic recipe is boiled octopus with boiled potatoes, smoked paprika, olive oil and salt, that’s the classic recipe. At Fish, they finish the octopus on the Josper grill and serve it with potato puree, aioli, paprika and endives.
The octopus was incredibly tender and the entire dish delightful. To round out the deep-sea dive, we came up for air for the sweet finish with a classic churros con chocolate, which was a hint of whimsy dunking churros in the melted chocolate. And a deconstructed banana cream pie that featured caramelized banana, vanilla cream, cookie crumble and a delightful mojito sorbet.
My absolute favorite, the deconstructed key lime pie that has been reimagined but still amazing, as you try to get the perfect spoonful of key lime cream, graham cracker crumble and toasted meringue. Dining at Fish by José Andrés is always an upscale experience that still manages to remain down-to-earth and welcoming. And a blend of cultures that just works.
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