Long before Manchester and Liverpool became the industrial powerhouses of England’s north-west, Chester was the top dog. And despite falling down the pecking order in terms of size and stature, this delightfully strollable cathedral city (and county town of Cheshire) remains a confident, prosperous place with plenty to engage and entertain visitors. Here are five highlights.
ROMAN LEGACY The Romans liked Chester - or Deva, as they knew it. Straddling a bend of the River Dee, close to the Irish Sea, it was a handy place for a fortress, good for suppressing the troublesome Welsh tribes who lived nearby. The Romans stayed for more than 300 years and their legacy permeates Chester’s compact centre, not least with the city walls, the most complete in Britain.
Stretching 3.2km, they were modified and expanded by successive occupiers, including Anglo-Saxons and Normans, and adapted into a fashionable public walkway in Georgian and Victorian times. It’s possible to do the entire circuit on foot and as you move, you’ll overlook sights of interest, including the Roman Gardens, which are dotted with ancient finds plus modern mosaics designed in classical style.
Sometimes historical re-enactments take place here run by the Deva Roman Experience, a popular family-friendly Chester attraction with immersive sets and actor-led shows taking you back almost 2000 years. Chester was the largest port in the north-west of England until the Middle Ages, when its harbour silted up and sea-going ships had to find alternatives. Yet the River Dee still flows by the city and affords a slew of water-based activities, from sightseeing trips on vessels like The Mark Twain, which resembles a Mississippi-like steamboat, to self-hire pedal, rowing and motor boats.
Kayak and stand-up paddleboarding tours are also offered, taking you by the city walls, bridges and bucolic meadows. Chester’s tree-shaded riverfront, known as The Groves, is a pleasant spot for an amble, an ice cream and a sit-down on one of the many benches. As well as the river, another waterway, the Shropshire Union Canal, skirts by Chester.
You’ll see people walking, running or cycling on a towpath fringed by repurposed canalside mills, warehouses and beer gardens. + If you’d like to stay overnight, Chester has several hotels old and new, including the canalside Moxy Hotel, which has rooms from around $125 per night. See marriott.
com + To help plan a trip to Britain, see visitbritain.com.
