The most glamorous job hunt in fashion is over. Chanel has announced the appointment of the 40-year-old French-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy to the role of creative director, bringing to an end a six-month recruitment campaign during which almost every top tier name in fashion has been linked to the role. Blazy joins Chanel from Bottega Veneta, which has become an insider favourite during his three-year tenure.
He previously held senior roles at Calvin Klein, Celine and Maison Margiela. Little known outside of the industry, he was considered an underdog in a field thought to have included Marc Jacobs, Jeremy Scott, Hedi Slimane, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Pieter Mulier of Azzedine Alaïa and Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose acclaimed run at Fendi ended recently. Blazy’s appointment offers a rare insight into strategy at Chanel, which is privately owned, famously secretive – and phenomenally successful.
Global revenue reached $19.7bn in 2023, representing a 16% annual increase during a period when most of the luxury industry has suffered a slowdown. The choice of Blazy suggests that the brand wants the Chanel name itself in headlines, rather than cede the limelight to a star designer.
By choosing an insider favourite rather than a celebrity name, CEO Leena Nair has prioritised taste and design over showmanship and name recognition. Blazy is known for making clothes, not for marketing them. Chanel’s decision is a contrast to that of Louis Vuitton, who last year appointed Pharrell.