Copenhagen Fashion Week is now a powerful player on the international style stage and is often regarded as the “fifth” fashion week city, along with New York, London, Milan and Paris. It is known for its stance on sustainability and roster of playful, contemporary brands, like Ganni and Saks Potts, however the street-style scene has become an important part of its power. The Copenhagen “look” circa 2018 was all about a colourful, printed dress (think Ganni gingham or Stine Goya florals) grounded with ugly, practical trainers or Havaianas in paintbox brights.
After all, this is a city where guests pull in at shows on bicycles and electric scooters. The trend cycle is a fickle business—one minute heels are declared “dead” and the next they are hailed as making a triumphant return. After lockdowns forced us into Birkenstocks and slippers, designers like Versace, Valentino and Saint Laurent suggested we dressed for the re-opened world in towering platforms that are so high, they make your arches hurt just looking at them.
Anne Hathaway and Dua Lipa rose (quite literally) to the occasion, however after a few months it was clear that most of us weren’t quite so willing to part with our slipper-like flats. Over the past couple of years, the front row was more likely to be lined with Alaïa crystal Mary Janes and mesh flats, than anything that might require an emergency Compeed. Unsurprisingly, Copenhagen, with its cobbles and bicycle culture, was the perfect city for souped-up ballet pumps.
Last August, Vogue noted how everyone was wearing fancy flats , from Alaïa’s crystal-embellished ballet pumps to Margiela’s split-toe Tabi. “At a time where the fashion mood consists of minimal silhouettes and ultra-wearable clothes, it’s fun to add playfulness and personality through accessories, particularly footwear,” Madeline Fass, Vogue.com’s fashion market editor, explained at the time.
“Alaïa’s crystal-covered Mary-Janes, while embellished, are totally flat. They make a statement, but are great for all day, everyday wear. In a cobblestone-heavy Copenhagen, I was so happy to have them—not to mentioned they added a little sparkle to an otherwise dreary forecast.
” This week, however, there has been a subtle shift, with show-goers returning to high heels. Of course, you’ll still spot Adidas SL72s and caged jelly shoes in the street-style shots, however the most popular shoe for August 2024 has been a ’90s sandal or mule that looks straight out of Carrie Bradshaw’s archive. These mini heels will lend polish to any look, however if you’re a reluctant heels wearer, you can still prioritise comfort—I can personally vouch for the fact that the Jimmy Choo Avenue 50 knotted mules are a realistic all-day shoe.
Joy Montgomery, commerce editor at British Vogue , is currently on the ground in Copenhagen, wearing a micro heel herself, and has noticed this shift in footwear. “While flats have dominated over the last few years, it seems as though the ‘90s kitten heel is making a stealth return for 2024,” she says from the shows. “If the show-goers at Copenhagen fashion week are anything to go by, the most popular pairing seems to be the kitten heel plus jorts or capri pants—a classic Carrie Bradshaw ensemble.
” Carrie Bradshaw personally favoured a low, peep-toe mule (preferably by Manolo Blahnik), and so it makes sense that this ’90s shoe would be paired with other nostalgic trends like jorts, bubble-hem skirts and cargo pants. Strappy heels also had a moment on the spring/summer 2024 runways , as the likes of Khaite, Jil Sander and Ferragamo brought us shoes with asymmetric straps and a minimalist, ’90s feel. But you might even be able to Lime Bike in these shoes, as Hanna Stefansson cycled to a show in white shorts and Sania D’Mina strappy sandals—proof, surely, of the trend’s unexpected practicality.
This article was originally published on British Vogue ..
