One of the food trends that jumped out at me as I tasted my way through nearly six football fields worth of products at the Specialty Food Association’s Summer Fancy Food Show in New York this year was buckwheat. The whole grain is hardly new: It’s been cultivated for thousands of years and is the base of many traditional foods throughout Asia and Europe, such as soba noodles, crepes and kasha. But at the show, I saw it used in new and exciting ways.
Two that stood out were the buckwheat granola from For Good Granola and the snack puffs from Diggables. Thinking about it, I should not have been surprised to see this ancient grain trending. It checks several hot-list boxes: Buckwheat is gluten-free (despite the name it’s not a type of wheat – it’s a seed that is used like a grain); it’s sustainable, used as a cover crop to help prevent soil erosion; and it’s rich in fiber and protein.
Plus, buckwheat’s dark color gives whatever you make with it a distinctively chic flair. In the spirit of innovating with buckwheat, I used it in the crust for this rustic tomato tart. Because buckwheat has no gluten, which normally holds such a crust together, it needs to be combined with regular flour for elasticity.
In testing, I found a 3:1 ratio of wheat flour to buckwheat flour made the dough easy to handle while still yielding the desired nutty-tasting, dark crust. (To keep it gluten-free, a cup-for-cup gluten-free flour blend can be substituted for the wheat flour.) The crust relies on healthful olive oil for fruity flavor and ease of preparation.
Unlike with a butter crust, you can just pour the oil in and not need to chill the dough. The star of the filling are slices of juicy, ripe summer tomatoes, which get drained and patted dry so the crust doesn’t get soggy. A handful of shredded cheese beneath the tomatoes echoes the nutty notes of the buckwheat and helps keep the crust crispy.
Sliced shallots and thyme bring yet more deep flavor and perfume. The result is a symphony of savory, the tomatoes’ flavors intensified with cooking inside the crust that’s reminiscent of pecan sandies cookies. Served warm or at room temperature, it’s a new way to use buckwheat that’s so good I haven’t been able to stop thinking about it.
From cookbook author and registered dietitian nutritionist Ellie Krieger. 4 to 6 servings (makes one 8-inch galette) Fresh summer tomatoes fill this unfussy savory galette with a healthful whole-grain twist that makes it deeply flavorful. The crust is easier to make than a typical butter pastry, because it requires fewer steps and does not need chilling.
The combination of whole-wheat pastry and buckwheat flours with olive oil makes the crust especially nutritious, and imparts a rich flavor that echoes the nuttiness of the Gruyere and the savoriness of the cooked tomatoes. To make this part of a main course, serve with a green salad. Storage: Refrigerate for up to 3 days; to reheat, cover with foil and place in a 350-degree oven until warmed through.
Where to buy: Whole-wheat pastry flour and buckwheat flour can be found at well-stocked supermarkets, natural food stores and online. Active time: 30 mins; Total time: 1 hour 10 mins Ingredients 1 pound (454 grams) ripe tomatoes, preferably heirloom, cored and sliced 1/4-inch thick 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, divided 3/4 cup (90 grams) whole-wheat pastry flour (see Substitutions) 1/4 cup (30 grams) buckwheat flour 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) mild olive oil 2 to 3 tablespoons ice water 2/3 cup (60 grams) grated Gruyere cheese 1/4 cup (30 grams) thinly sliced shallot (1/2 small) 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, plus more optional leaves for serving 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon water, plus more as needed 1 large egg Directions Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Line a large plate with towels, and line a large cutting board with a piece of parchment paper.
Set both nearby. In a medium bowl, sprinkle the tomatoes with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Let sit for 5 minutes, then drain off the liquid and discard or reserve for another use.
Use your fingers to remove any pulp and seeds from the tomato slices, then arrange the tomatoes in a single layer on the lined plate to drain. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the whole-wheat pastry and buckwheat flours with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt until well combined. Add the oil and 2 tablespoons of the water, then stir to combine.
Add additional water, 1 teaspoon at a time, as needed, and mix until the mixture is hydrated enough to form into a cohesive, shaggy dough that stays together when pinched with your hands. Transfer the dough to the prepared parchment and shape into a flat disc, positioning it in the center. Place another piece of parchment on top of it, and roll out the dough into a round that is 9 to 10 inches in diameter; it’s OK if the circle looks irregular.
Transfer the dough, still between the parchment, to a large sheet pan. Peel off the top piece of parchment and discard it or save for another use. Scatter the cheese over the dough, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border around the edges.
Arrange the tomatoes and shallot over the cheese and sprinkle with the thyme and pepper. Gently fold the edges of the dough up and over the filling; it’s OK if the galette looks rustic and homey. If the dough crumbles a bit as you fold it, just patch it back up, pressing it with your fingers and using a little water if needed.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg with 1 tablespoon of water until well combined. Brush top of the dough with the egg wash and transfer to the oven. (Refrigerate the remaining egg wash for another use, for up to 2 days.
) Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the center is bubbling and the crust is browned. Transfer the sheet pan to a wire rack, sprinkle with more thyme leaves, if desired, and let cool slightly or completely before cutting into wedges and serving. Substitutions: Whole-wheat pastry flour >> white whole-wheat or all-purpose flour.
Gruyere >> cheddar, Parmesan, Monterey jack or other cheese of your choice. Thyme >> rosemary or sage. Shallot >> red onion.
No egg? >> Use a splash of heavy cream in place of the egg wash. Nutritional facts per wedge, based on 6 | 218 calories, 21g carbohydrates, 17mg cholesterol, 13g fat, 4g fiber, 7g protein, 3g saturated fat, 215mg sodium, 3g sugar.
