Savvy watch collectors on the lookout for investment pieces must predict. Predicting requires matching current events to known historical patterns that add value to watches. England’s Bremont Watches is matching three compelling patterns simultaneously: 1) after a major investment round, the company’s founders have recently departed , 2) the new leadership is making sudden, drastic changes to both brand and products, and 3) early Bremont watches are aging into neo-vintage status.
It’s a trifecta of potential collectability. We reached out to watch expert Jason Heaton , who has been a notable fan of Bremont for many years, and he told Robb Report , “For a relatively young brand, Bremont has always had an eye on history and legacy, not only through their distinctive yet timeless designs, but also through their ambitious early limited editions. These watches not only paid tribute to significant historical events, but also physical elements, such as fabric or metal from iconic aircraft, and wood from a famous warship.
Some of the early generation Bremont watches even now look like neo-vintage classics. Their durable build also means these collectibles don’t need to be coddled.” We also tapped Jason Heaton for some specific model recommendations (see our list below).
However, before we jump into the various collectible Bremont models, let’s quickly consider the departure of the founders, the drastic changes happening under new leadership, and what it means for a watch to age into neo-vintage. Each of these three phenomena are important to creating Bremont’s newfound collectibility. The English brothers , who are dear to fans of Bremont, left the company in 2023, 21 years after founding it with the mission of returning industrial-scale watchmaking to British soil.
Nick and Giles were ambitious and, by their own admission, sometimes naive in assuming that they could restore British watchmaking. Despite the occasional misstep, Bremont took off with high spirits toward lofty goals, won over many fans, and became prolific during a period when themed limited-edition watches were becoming a thing (more on this important point below). Bremont’s watches weren’t especially expensive, nor were they the height of horological handcraft.
The watches housed third-party movements until quite recently, and prices started around $3500. However, Bremont’s storytelling was powerful, its aviation orientation compelling, its sponsoring of World Record-setting adventurers meaningful, and the unique three-piece Trip-Tick case and all around indestructible build-quality all helped distinguish the brand. The founding era of any brand always ends with a shift in leadership and/or ownership.
CBS bought Fender Guitars in 1965, and a pre-CBS Fender, when Leo was still running the company, is multiples more valuable than post-1965 models. AMF bought Harley Davidson in 1969, and the pre-AMF hogs are still the most collectible. If you want a serious vintage Cartier Tank , then get one that predates the 1970s family sell-out (and marked decline in quality).
Similarly, a pre-TAG Heuer watch is more valuable than those which came after the 1986 acquisition. And so on. The pattern is clear: The most valuable stuff is that produced during the founding era.
These products are closer to the origins, which is a working definition of authenticity, and authenticity always imparts value on collectibles. Davide Cerrato took the helm of Bremont in July of 2023. Cerrato had led Tudor watches through its revival, and he takes credit for the wildly popular Black Bay series of watches.
Cerrato also shepherded Montblanc ’s watch department into a much-needed new era. During a stint at avant-garde HYT, Cerrato cemented his reputation as a CEO who took control of existing watch brands and shook things up. Some people feel that Cerrato shook Bremont up a little too much and too soon.
Backlash from hardcore fans of Bremont and more tentative critiques from the mainstream watch press followed, and Instagram mayhem ensued, requiring the English brothers to try to soothe things over on social media. Among the changes Cerrato initiated are a new graphical and text logo, an entirely new line of watches with unfamiliar (some would say off-brand) font sets and case shapes, the introduction of industry-standard 904L steel (rather than Bremont’s impressively hardened steel), and—perhaps most shocking of all—more accessible pricing. This was a lot of change all at once, and it was indeed jarring to many familiar with the brand.
We can confidently say that a new era of marketing, pricing, global ambition, design, and branding has begun at Bremont. Somewhat confusingly, Bremont maintains its original propellor logo on some “aviation models,” and the Trip-Tick case also remains on some models, even those with new logos. So while this new Cerrato-era is clearly delineated in time, it is not quite as clearly delineated in the catalog (so far).
However, for the purposes of collectability, any Bremont watch that pre-dates the summer of 2023 can be said to belong to the founding era, but the earlier models, limited editions, and discontinued models will perform best as investments. We’ve noted elsewhere the rise of the neo-vintage category , including deeper analysis of Rolex ‘s neo-vintage potential and tasty neo-vintage offerings during Phillips Hong Kong auction this year. Generally speaking, neo-vintage watches are between 20 and 40 years old.
Many collectors consider neo-vintage a great place to explore investment, because the watches tend to be a bit out of date, yet not back in retro-nostalgic vogue. This creates a value nadir in which prices tend to be low and likely to go up once the vintage status kicks in at around 40 years. Bremont watches will never be considered high horology, but Bremont watches do represent a distinct moment in the history of watchmaking: The 21st-century rise of the small independent watch brand (including very small operations known as micro-brands).
If we squint back a few decades, we can just start to see early Bremonts emerging as meaningful collectibles. Let’s dive into some models that we believe are most likely to make the best investments. Jason Heaton has helped us put this list together, so we will further refer to his expertise as we go.
Heaton tells us that, “The MB-II, Bremont’s collaboration with British ejection seat maker, Martin-Baker, is the company’s best known watch, and rightly so. It was designed to be the ultimate modern pilot’s watch, with a precise Roto-click timing ring, anti-magnetic movement protection and an anti-shock system tested on test dummies in actual ejection seats. If you own one Bremont, this should be it.
” Add in the three-piece Trip-Tick case and hardened steel and it’s easy to see why this watch was able to be catapulted out of a moving airplane. Heaton states that, “The ALT1-C remains an example of a classically styled two-register chronograph and perhaps Bremont’s most handsome watch to date, particularly the polished steel reference.” There’s no arguing that the ALT1-C was—and for the time being still is—essential to the Bremont catalog, as well as to the brand’s aviation-oriented identity.
Launched in 2007, this model has remained a classic Bremont model, and early examples are sure to become important memorabilia of the brand’s early days. Heaton tells us that, “The Supermarine 500, Bremont’s first dive watch still stands out as a design that is both fresh and distinctly British, yet classic enough to look good two decades on.” The Supermarine 500 uses the Trip-Tick case to good effect, and the scratch-resistant hardened steel and ceramic bezel inserts mean these watches look as good after years of use as they did when new.
The Supermarine 300 is more or less a 40 mm version of the Supermarine 500, though with reduced water resistance. While the 500 remains a classic of Bremont’s early days, the 300 became a classic of the moment when watch sizes started to come down around 2018 or so. Also, this model went through a major redesign under Cerrato, and examples featuring the older (and we think better) logo and dial design are sure to become classics.
Perhaps they already have. Heaton goes on to explain that, “The limited edition watches Bremont released annually for a number of years were made in low numbers and remain highly collectible and hard to find. Of these, [a] stand out is the 1918 chronographs commemorating the Royal Air Force.
” Indeed, a lovely design with moonphase complication and offered in both stainless steel and precious metals. The white gold with blue dial is especially attractive. With dials hand-painted by Rolling Stone guitarist Ronnie Wood, there are just 47 of these, because Wood was born in 1947 and, well, you have to stop somewhere.
These are the kind of one-off watches that will eventually be incredibly valuable, we believe, and if you’re even remotely into The Stones and watches, these are a must-have. Steven Hawking was an astounding British scientist, and therefore the English brothers celebrated him. This watch not only has a wonderful retrograde seconds hand and big date complication, but it incorporates wood from Hawking’s desk where he wrote his major works, as well as meteorite.
You wont find that in any other watch anywhere. Very limited, and highly collectible in stainless steel, as well as white and yellow gold. Continuing with the theme, Bremont’s tribute to the Spruce Goose flown by Howard Hughes contains wood from the dashboard of the famous plane, which was the largest to fly when it finally lifted off—just barely, and not for long.
Limited, compelling, and produced in stainless steel, white gold and yellow gold, this is one for the watch safe. To celebrate the Concorde Supersonic Jet, Bremont released this high-end limited edition in just 100 pieces in yellow gold, 100 in white gold, and 300 in stainless steel. The feeling from these watches is that of a very high-end timepiece, with a highly decorated movement meant to look like the downward-turned nose of the jet itself.
Heaton also singles out another limited edition, called “the Victory, that emulated a classical marine chronometer and contains a sliver of wood from Admiral Nelson’s famous ship, meaning you not only get a beautiful and rare watch, but also a legitimate piece of maritime history.”.
