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I love this time of year. Herbs are abundant and fresh peas are tender and sweet. The new season brings with it anticipation of warmer weather and more opportunities to eat outside.

Inspired by the classic French style of cooking peas, I often make this simple, yet satisfying dish. Frozen peas are more than acceptable here, too, and my lettuce of choice is gem lettuce, which is robust enough to withstand a little cooking. This is a wonderful, one-pan dish, perfect for a weeknight meal or a weekend lunch.



For a creamy version, simply dollop some creme fraiche into the pan during the final few minutes of cooking. Ingredients 1.2kg skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (chicken chops) sea salt and black pepper 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp unsalted butter 1 leek, white and light-green part thinly sliced 2 spring onions, finely sliced, green and white parts separated 4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 125ml dry white wine 200ml chicken stock 3 gem lettuce hearts, quartered 250g fresh or frozen baby peas small handful of dill fronds, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve small handful of tarragon leaves, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve zest of a lemon crusty bread, to serve Method Season the chicken thighs well with salt and pepper.

Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based braising pan (a low, wide saucepan) over a high flame. When hot, brown the chicken, skin-side down, for about 6 minutes or until golden.

Turn the chicken over and brown the other side for 2–3 m.

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