It was Albert Szent-Györgyi back in the 1930s who discovered the world of benefits associated with ascorbic acid aka vitamin C. The Hungarian biochemist, who won a Nobel Prize in medicine for his findings, is credited with understanding one of the foundations of basic nutrition but also its application in dermatology. When you next encounter someone who thinks the use of serums containing Vit C as a novel development, you can repeat this fun(ish) fact – or at least hope it comes up at the next pub quiz.
Vitamin C is banded about the beauty community, but what does it actually do in skincare? “Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis and also works as an antioxidant to offer protection against UV-induced photodamage”, says Dr Eirini Merika Consultant Dermatologist at Belgravia clinic Montrose London. “Its derivatives also decrease melanin synthesis which can help treat hyperpigmentation. There are also reported benefits on wrinkle formation, skin sagging, scar treatment and wound healing”.
Vitamin C often comes in lightweight serum form. The best glide onto the skin without leaving behind a greasy slick. Selecting the one to suit your skin type and budget is not an easy task.
Quality is of the utmost importance, but doesn't mean it has to come with a high price tag? Dr Merika explains, “There is a wide variety of factors that can affect different price points between brands. The quality and concentration of vitamin C mostly affect the price. A higher concentration does not necessarily translate into better effects.
Vitamin C concentrations between 10-20 per cent are usually sufficient”. She continues, “Vitamin C in its pure form, called ascorbic acid, has a very short shelf life and therefore most products contain vitamin C derivatives. These derivatives are more stable and expire less quickly than pure vitamin C, but are more expensive.
Pricing will also depend on other ingredients mixed in with vitamin C, such as vitamin E, ferulic acid and hyaluronic acid, which also help stabilise it. Marketing and packaging costs also play a role in pricing”. They say don’t judge a book by its cover but the same doesn’t apply to vitamin C.
The packaging is extremely important when it comes to ensuring that it is worth your hard-earned bucks. “Look for airtight containers that are opaque”, reveals the dermatologist. “Avoid preparations that are not clear in colour; vitamin C is a clear liquid in its pure state and any alteration in colour may be a sign it has become oxidised and is less effective”.
Pay attention to the concentration and formulation. She advises to “Choose a preparation with 10-20 per cent concentration and ideally a medical-grade product and avoid other active ingredients in the same preparation such as AHA/BHA and retinol ”. Shop the best affordable vitamin C serums below.
