In case you missed the chunky-wedge-sandal memo: boho is back. And riding high (waisted) alongside the trend is the return of bell-bottomed trousers and jeans. Wide-legged flares became big in the late 1960s, going more mainstream in the 70s – synonymous with vibes of peace and love, and worn by such icons as Sonny and Cher, and the late David Bowie .
But they actually originated in the early 19th century as rather practical trousers for sailors in the US and later in Britain. One reason given for their invention is that the wide leg of the trousers made it easier for someone to grab should a man fall overboard. They were also easier to remove when wet, could be flipped up should the deck be awash with water, and with a certain amount of flair (pun intended), be used as a last-ditch flotation device.
It was these trousers, surfacing in army and navy shops, that were repurposed as the uniform of rebels and hippies of the 70s. They also served as inspiration for Coco Chanel’s “yacht pants” and “beach pyjamas” of the 1920s. {"@context":"https://schema.
org","@type":"ImageObject","caption":"Frame jeans, modelled by Gisele Bundchen. Photos: Handout","url":"https://img.i-scmp.
com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=contain,width=1024,format=auto/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/07/23/92e86647-f8d3-4e05-b3cf-2a8d6a14b426_1f19ff51.jpg"} Frame jeans, modelled by Gisele Bundchen. Photos: Handout The feeling of freedom that bell-bottomed trousers evoke was captured at Chemena Kamali’s debut for Chloé, one of the buzziest shows of the most recent fashion season.
Her line-up included light-wash denim flares, and leather trousers with billowing chiffon flares. Kelsey Lyle, resort wear and denim buyer at luxury fashion e-commerce platform Moda Operandi, says the Chloé show has definitely influenced a return to bell-bottomed and flared jeans. “I’d be remiss not to mention the dramatic light-wash flares from Chloé’s autumn/winter 2024 show,” she continues.
“Since Chemena Kamali’s appointment as Chloé’s creative director, there’s been a resurgence of boho chatter, potentially reigniting the comeback of denim flares. The two-tone denim style was a hit at the brand’s [pre-order] trunk show, and we expect stellar performance when we launch it for immediate purchase come autumn.” {"@context":"https://schema.
org","@type":"ImageObject","caption":"Glow-up flare denim pants at Moda Operandi","url":"https://img.i-scmp.com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=contain,width=1024,format=auto/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/07/23/16b55c36-a5b3-4035-a446-633829ec388e_81ca48cd.
jpg"} Glow-up flare denim pants at Moda Operandi Top-selling flare styles on Moda Operandi include Jeanerica’s Fuji and St Monica jeans, as well as the Glow-Up jean style from Closed. Lyle says flares and bell-bottoms are the logical evolution of the wide-legged denim trend, and work especially well in the cooler seasons. “Flares evoke a nostalgic charm reminiscent of a bohemian era,” she notes.
“As we head into autumn/winter 2024 – when boots, clogs and higher heels are the typical shoe choice – we expect to see an increase in flared styles available. While the wider leg trend has been prevalent for the past year, there’s certainly a fresh evolution towards a silhouette that hugs the thigh while retaining the dramatic flair of a wider leg opening,” she says. {"@context":"https://schema.
org","@type":"ImageObject","caption":"Chloe fall/winter 2024-2025","url":"https://img.i-scmp.com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=contain,width=1024,format=auto/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/07/23/0d748c7d-0156-440e-9cba-9e98f6ef12cb_41c2e6fd.
jpg"} Chloe fall/winter 2024-2025 The return of flares fits with other more sculptural denim shapes such as the “horseshoe” silhouette, with its curved shape, spied on the runway at Alaïa and at brands such as Citizens of Humanity. “The horseshoe feels a bit sculptural, but still has the ability to look relaxed and sophisticated. It references vintage styles, yet feels modern,” Marianne McDonald, creative director at Citizens of Humanity, told Vogue US, noting that, like flares, the horseshoe can be “divisive” and that people tend to have “strong opinions” about it.
{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","caption":"Frame bell bottoms","url":"https://img.i-scmp.
com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=contain,width=1024,format=auto/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/07/23/23719add-6f24-4871-aa69-3e15b9c32d93_41c2e6fd.jpg"} Frame bell bottoms Other brands to look to for flares and bell-bottomed jeans include Levi’s, Frame, Mother and Riders by Lee. Celebrities have certainly been keeping up.
At last year’s Chanel cruise 2023-24 show in Los Angeles, brand ambassador Margot Robbie wore a pair of high-waisted bell-bottomed jeans with a black Chanel bralette and cropped vest featuring the fashion house’s signature woven chain. Meanwhile, Gigi Hadid was recently snapped in a pair of black bell-bottomed jeans on a night out in New York City with reported boyfriend Bradley Cooper . Hadid paired the look with a sleek black jumper and high-heeled boots, making the look more sophisticated than groovy.
{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"ImageObject","caption":"Margot Robbie at the Chanel Cruise 2024-2025 show in LA, in May 2023","url":"https://img.i-scmp.
com/cdn-cgi/image/fit=contain,width=1024,format=auto/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2024/07/23/721139f2-84a6-47ec-8631-9d537a9cb3c5_0cc71bf2.jpg"} Margot Robbie at the Chanel Cruise 2024-2025 show in LA, in May 2023 As Vogue noted, styling bell-bottomed jeans as Hadid did hits a sweet spot between the polarising skinny and baggy silhouettes. And as Robbie showed with her teeny bralette, you really don’t need to pair bell-bottoms with much to make an impact.
Of course, it’s also worth remembering that, when it comes to denim trends, just about everything comes around again. Kelsey Lyle at Moda Operandi says Chemena Kamali’s debut for Chloé was key to the 1960s and 1970s style’s revival, with her platform selling versions by Jeanerica and Closed Alaïa and Citizens of Humanity offer a variation with a ‘horseshoe’ profile while Levi’s, Frame, Mother and Riders by Lee are all also offering flared styles.
