Editor’s note: Explore contributor Gensheng Tian hiked a part of the Pacific Crest Trail in July. This is the first of two installments. The Pacific Crest Trail is not only a scenic trail but also home to thru hikers who are traveling the entire route.
Once you step onto the trail, their fantastic stories will inspire. The trail, often called the PCT, is 2,653 miles crossing California, Oregon, Washington and British Columbia, Canada. Washington has five sections of trail, and we completed a portion of one section.
Day 1 Vipin filled out the wilderness permit form at the White Pass PCT trailhead. We planned to backpack to Chinook Pass for three days and two nights, hiking 28 miles with 5,050 feet elevation gain. The trail was dry, quiet and easy.
Huckleberry bushes were scattered along the path. Flowers blooming beside the trail mirrored our happy feelings. Lingering snow patches reminded us of winter's remnants.
We had walked less than a mile when we encountered a young PCT hiker named Medicine Man, who worked in Shenandoah National Park. "Are you guys doing the PCT?" he asked, looking so happy. "No, we're just doing this short section," I said.
"And you?" "PCT. I just finished the Wonderland Loop, it was stunning." The Wonderland Trail near Mount Rainier is 93 miles with 22,000 feet elevation gain and takes 10-14 days.
“I’ve done the Appalachian Trail in 2021 in 99 days and the Continental Divide Trail in 2023 in 100 days. I think I’ll finish this in 100 days." Medicine Man loved to chat, finding balance and relief from the days of solitude in the woods.
Thru hikers who complete these three trails are called Triple Crowners. At the end of 2023, the American Long-Distance Hiking Association-West recognized 665 Triple Crown of Hiking Award recipients worldwide. Medicine Man will be a Triple Crowner this year.
His achievement was like a towering mountain - not everyone can reach its summit. After hiking two miles, we arrived at Deer Lake. The meadows encircling the serene lake, with mountains framing one side, created a picturesque and peaceful scene.
We stayed there to enjoy the beauty. Flowers and the creek decorated the meadows "Are you feeling alright?" I asked Vipin. "Yes, I am," he replied, curious about the question.
"Do you think we can complete it in two days and one night?" I inquired. "Yes, we can," he replied. After hiking seven and half more miles, we arrived at Pipe Lake.
I noticed the campsites by the beautiful water. If we hadn’t changed our plan, we would have set up our tents there. I will definitely return to explore the lakes in the future.
Vipin had disappeared. We had agreed to either wait at junctions or keep going if separated. I maintained my pace, my breath in sync with my steps, and continued onward.
It was so quiet and peaceful. The subalpine meadows were dotted with different flowers, and the grass gleamed with a shine under the sunlight. Dragonflies flew along a small, winding creek.
As I walked, the beautiful sceneries caught my eye, imprinted on my mind and stayed in my heart. They became a part of my life, soothing my soul. We passed numerous lakes, some big and some small.
Occasionally, we met a PCT hiker; we exchanged greetings before they quickly disappeared along the trail. We walked until the sun began to lower, and mosquitoes were on the trail all day long. The beargrass shone under the sunlight.
I saw butterflies fluttering in the meadows, and I could imagine how happy they were. The breeze serenaded me with its lovely song, and in that moment, it was a steadfast friend. An elk startled and ran across the trail and up a forested slope.
Vipin went to check it out immediately, but I kept walking. I didn’t want to bother it. I am a visitor here; this is their home.
"There’s no scenery here." Vipin remarked. I knew he wasn’t complaining, just expressing his thoughts.
"Did you see Mount Rainier?" I asked, surprised by his statement. "No, where?" he asked curiously. "We just passed it, in the woods.
On the left, you can see the mountain," I explained. While everyone loves the scenery, that wasn't my only purpose for coming here. I was seeking something on the trail that humanity lost long, long ago.
Only on the trail could I find it, and it made me very emotional. Vipin stopped at Bumping River. "How do we cross it?" he asked, looking at me.
The river was wide and swift. After checking the log for a while, I said, "Let me cross it first. Place your poles on the log for support, lift one foot and step onto the log, then the other.
" Using three points of contact, I crossed the river. "Take a video of me," he said, starting to cross it smoothly. His poles acted like road detectors, making me laugh.
We ascended Crag Mountain, the path seemingly endless as we climbed higher and higher. Gensheng Tian hikes along a creek on the Pacific Crest Trail. Both of us were exhausted.
We had already hiked over 16 miles, and it was almost 9 p.m. Upon crossing a small creek, I spotted two areas where we could set up our tents.
"Hey Vipin," I pointed to the spots, "how about here?" After I set up my tent, I walked to the creek with my hiking towel to wash myself. I was dirty and smelled unpleasant. The creek's water was cold, fresh and clean.
As I wiped my face and body with the towel, I felt revitalized. Next, I set up my burner on the trail, placed a mug filled with filtered water on it, cleared away any easily inflammable materials, and started cooking. I turned the burner fire low and sat in front of it to prevent any potential fires.
Vipin was so exhausted that he didn’t even brush his teeth before collapsing into his tent to sleep. He was carrying at least 10 extra pounds, no light load for a long journey. The stars twinkled between the branches and trees as I lay on my pillow, which felt like a musical box broadcasting the soothing sound of the creek.
Before I could even fully smile at the comforting scene, I fell asleep, that same smile lingering in my dreams. Around 5 a.m.
, the birds began chirping and singing, waking me up. The stars had disappeared, and I gazed at the tall trees standing silently, their branches completely still. It felt like I was inside a beautiful painting.
I admired the beauty around me and listened to the soulful music of nature. The sunshine made the forest even more stunning. With birds singing, deer roaming, and the creek gently flowing, it all brought me back to a time long, long ago - an era that felt like a real fairytale.
• Gensheng Tian contributes occasionally to Explore. He’s an avid writer and English is his second language. He is a card dealer at Legends Casino in Toppenish but says his real business is hiking and backpacking.
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