Fine dining has an image problem. Its tendency to take itself too seriously makes it ripe for parody in films like The Menu . But the era of stuffy, uptight waiters is dying a cheerless death, replaced by a much more exuberant, personable and joyful alternative.
It’s one that at its best feels decidedly Australian. Take Vue de monde , a restaurant almost synonymous with Australian fine dining. A few years ago, eating there was a nerve-racking experience that included being constantly startled by barks of “YES CHEF!” from cooks in the open kitchen, plus those same cooks marching a parade of dishes to the table and describing them with concentrated solemnity.
It felt studious rather than fun. These days, dining at Vue is more like a party, one hosted by a cast of charming characters who want to help you celebrate, no matter what the occasion. Servers and cooks arrive at your table as themselves rather than dour robots spouting facts and techniques.
Wine director Dorian Guillon, restaurant manager Rajnor Soin and executive chef Hugh Allen set the tone, bringing a lighthearted, welcoming and enthusiastic presence to every interaction. It was that sense of joy I noticed at many of the highest-rated restaurants during my visits over the past year as chief restaurant critic at The Age . At Amaru, a three-hat restaurant in Melbourne’s Armadale, staff engaged in real conversations with customers, sticking around as long as the connection lasted rather than rushing off – it w.
