Chef William S. Dissen will bring his thoughtful approach to food and cooking to Bookmarks Festival of Books during a talk at 11:30 a.m.
Sept. 28. Dissen is the executive chef and owner of The Market Place restaurant in Asheville as well as three Billy D’ Fried Chicken places – one at N.
C. Carolina Zoo in Asheboro, one at Elon University in Elon and one at Wake Forest University in Winston-Salem. Until last year, he also owned Haymaker Restaurant in Charlotte.
This spring, he also became a cookbook author with the publication of “Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes Rooted in the New South” (Countryman Press, $35). Dissen is a native of West Virginia, where he grew up spending lots of time at his grandparents’ farm. “I had a very Appalachian upbringing, playing in the woods,” he said in a recent telephone interview.
“Growing up, spending a lot of time outside, you learn the value of nature.” People are also reading..
. That upbringing has informed Dissen’s cooking. He has become an advocate for farm-to-table seasonal cooking, and for sustainable growing practices.
He serves as a culinary diplomat in the American Chefs Corps of the U.S. State Department, educate organizations around the world about food sustainability.
He also is a seafood watch ambassador for The Monterey Bay Aquarium in California, which advocates for seafood sustainability. He has gone to Capitol Hill to speak to Congress about food policy, including the Farm Bill and the Childhood Nutrition Reauthorization Act. He also has appeared on “Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted” on National Geographic – and beat the famous British chef in a cooking contest.
Afterward, Ramsay called him “the most sustainable chef on the planet,” a compliment, Dissen said, that helped him get his book published. “I had first tried to get this book published seven or eight years ago,” he said. “Thoughtful Cooking” reflects his beliefs about cooking in the moment.
William S. Dissen will talk about his book "Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes Rooted in the New South" at 11:30 a.m.
Sept. 28 at the Mountcastle Forum, in the Milton Rhodes Center for the Arts, 251 N. Spruce St.
, Winston-Salem, as part of the 2024 Bookmarks Festival of Books & Authors. “I tried to think about the way I cook in my restaurants, in my home. It’s cooking in the moment but cooking with intention.
The idea of thoughtful cooking is also thinking about voting with your forks, thinking about where your food comes from,” he said. It’s also about cooking with the best ingredients. “In my opinion, good food starts fresh.
Would you prefer to have a tomato in July, August or September, or would you prefer a tomato in January? To be the best chef, you have to have the best ingredients. At my restaurants, we’re cooking with food that are the ripest, at peak flavor. And we are doing a lot of preservation – canning, pickling.
” His book also reflects a changing South. “I wrote a seasonal cookbook, showing my take on Southern cuisine through my lens as an Asheville, Appalachian chef. The South is an evolving place.
This melting pot of the region we’re in is ever-evolving.” “Thoughtful Cooking” has about 100 recipes organized by season – plus a handful of building-block recipes for stocks, sauces and more in the back of the book. The Spring chapter includes recipes for pea and ricotta-stuffed morel mushrooms with ricotta sauce, cornmeal and olive-oil cake with crème fraiche and strawberry preserves, and pickled ramp dirty martini.
Summer includes tomato pie, Fairy Tale eggplant, pan-roasted golden tilefish and Billy D’s fried chicken. For fall, there are such recipes as smoked turkey legs with kumquat glaze, cauliflower and apple salad with green peppercorn and mustard dressing, braised duck legs with charred Brussels sprouts, and apple tart with cinnamon brown-butter ice cream. Finally, for winter Dissen serves up shiitake mushroom spoonbread, roasted beet salad with blood orange, red-wine-braised short ribs with blue cheese and apple slaw and lemon pound cake with brie ice cream.
Each recipe includes a “thoughtful tip,” such as how corn cobs may be saved add flavor to vegetable stocks, or as a substitute for wood chips in a smoker. And the end of each chapter includes some “deep thoughts,” or short essays on such topics as preservation or eating local. In the book, Dissen describes thoughtful cooking as a type of self-care “The real work and pleasure of sourcing, cooking, eating, and nourishing ourselves starts when we decide we want more out of life,” he wrote.
For him, he said, the idea of thoughtful cooking came from hours talking to farmers and fishermen, or from getting his hands dirty foraging in the woods. “Eating seasonally and sustainably is an act of self-care and at the same time an act of embracing our community,” he wrote. “I’ve realized in my career as a chef that food is a great connector.
Food is powerful. Having a meal, breaking bread with someone ..
. you realize people aren’t as different as you thought they might be.” mhastings@wsjournal.
com 336-727-7394 @mhastingswsj Makes 4 servings Chicken brine: 4 cups water 1 cup apple cider vinegar 2/3 cup kosher salt 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon coriander seed 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed 1 bunch thyme Chicken: 1 4-to 5-pound whole chicken, fryer size, cut into 1/8ths 1 tablespoon plus 1⁄2 teaspoon Kosher salt 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1⁄2 teaspoon paprika 2 cups whole fat buttermilk 2 large eggs 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons non-fat dry milk 1⁄2 teaspoon garlic powder Canola oil, for frying Hot dip: 1⁄4 cup red pepper flakes 1 cup blended oil 1⁄2 teaspoon chili powder 1⁄4 teaspoon Kosher salt Pinch cayenne pepper Barbecue sauce: 1 cup mayonnaise 4 teaspoon granulated sugar 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar 2 teaspoons water 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 teaspoon Frank’s Red Hot 1⁄2 teaspoon garlic powder 1⁄2 teaspoon onion powder 1⁄2 teaspoon Kosher salt 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Prepare the brine: Place the water, vinegar, salt, sugar, coriander seed, bay leaf, peppercorns, mustard seed and thyme into a small saucepot, set over medium high heat and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Strain the brine through a fine mesh strainer and refrigerate until ready to use. 2. Place the chicken pieces in to a 1-gallon ziptop bag, add the brine and seal.
Place the bag into a large bowl and refrigerate 30 minutes. 3. Remove the chicken from the brine, rinse under cold water and pat dry.
Place the chicken on a sheet tray lined with a cooling rack and refrigerate uncovered, for at least 2 hours and up to overnight so the chicken dries completely. 4. Prepare the hot dip: Place the red pepper flakes in a small saucepan and cover with the oil.
Set over medium high heat and bring to 165 degrees. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Add the chili powder, salt and cayenne pepper and stir to combine.
Set aside until ready to use or store in an airtight container, at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. 5. Prepare the barbecue sauce: Place the mayonnaise, sugar, cider vinegar, water, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, hot sauce, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and black pepper into a medium bowl and whisk to combine.
Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use and up to 2 weeks. 6. Prepare the chicken: Place 1⁄2-inches of oil into a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven, set over medium high heat and bring to 325 degrees.
(Or heat a deep fryer to 325, per the fryers instructions.) 7. Place 1 tablespoon kosher salt, black pepper, dried thyme, cayenne pepper and paprika into a small bowl and stir to combine.
Set aside the seasoning blend. 8. Place the buttermilk and eggs into a large bowl and whisk to combine.
9. Place the flour, milk powder, garlic powder, 2 tablespoons of the seasoning blend, and the remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon of kosher salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. 10.
Season the chicken on all sides with the remaining seasoning blend. Place the chicken, once piece at a time, in the flour mixture and turn to evenly coat. Shake off excess and return to the rack inside the sheet tray.
11. Transfer all the chicken to the bowl with the buttermilk and egg mixture. 12.
Spoon 1⁄4-cup of the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture and using your fingertips, rub together until the texture is coarse like wet sand. One piece at a time, remove the chicken from the buttermilk, allowing access buttermilk to drip off. Place the chicken into the wet flour mixture and turn to coat well, pressing the mixture into the chicken to adhere as much of the flour on each piece as possible.
Return the chicken to the prepared sheet tray and repeat until all the chicken has been coated. 13. Prepare a clean sheet tray with a rack and set aside.
14. Working in batches, carefully place 2 to 3 pieces of chicken at a time, into the hot oil and cook until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165F, 8 to 10 minutes. 15.
Carefully remove chicken from the fryer and place on the clean, prepared sheet tray and allow to drain. Repeat until all chicken is cooked. 16.
If desired, dip the chicken in the hot dip as soon as it comes out of the oil and then place on prepared sheet tray. Serve warm, with the barbecue sauce. Recipe from “Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes Rooted in the New South” (Countryman Press) Makes 6 to 8 servings Dressing: 1⁄4 cup chopped, pickled green peppercorns 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard 1 tablespoon wildflower honey 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1⁄2 cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Salad: 1 small head cauliflower, thinly sliced 1 Granny Smith apple, julienned 1 cup thinly shaved red onion 1 cup julienned carrot 1 cup thinly shaved fennel 1⁄2 cup thinly sliced scallion 1⁄2 cup dried cherries 1⁄2 cup roasted, salted pistachios Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 cups arugula 8 ounces feta, crumbled 1⁄2 cup roughly chopped mint 1⁄2 cup roughly chopped flat leaf parsley 1.
In a large mixing bowl, add the green peppercorns, vinegar, mustard, and honey and whisk to combine. Slowly add the olive oil, while whisking continually. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
2. Add the cauliflower, apple, red onion, carrot, fennel, scallion, cherries, and pistachios. Toss to combine.
Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside for 5 minutes. 3.
Add the arugula, feta, mint, and parsley and toss to combine. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 6 hours before serving. Recipe from “Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes Rooted in the New South” (Countryman Press) Makes 4 servings 1 pound Fairy Tale eggplant, cut in half lengthwise (See Note) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus extra to taste 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra to taste 1 tablespoon toasted benne seeds Green tahini: 1⁄2 cup tahini 3 ounces water, plus extra if necessary 1⁄4 bunch parsley, roughly chopped 1⁄4 bunch basil, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1⁄2 teaspoon toasted, ground cumin seed 1⁄2 teaspoon minced garlic Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Pickled Fresno Relish 1⁄2 cup drained, seeded, and diced pickled Fresno peppers (recipe below) 2 tablespoons sliced green onion 1 tablespoon chopped chives 1-inch piece orange peel, minced 1 tablespoons extra -irgin olive oil, plus extra as needed 1 tablespoon pickling liquid, plus extra as desired Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1.
Prepare the eggplant: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the eggplant into a bowl and toss with the oil, salt, and pepper. 2.
Arrange the eggplants cut side up on a sheet tray in a single layer, making sure not to overcrowd the tray. Roast the eggplant until it begins to become golden, and the flesh is tender, 30 to 35 minutes. 3.
Prepare the tahini: Place the tahini, water, parsley, basil, lemon juice, cumin, and garlic into a blender and puree until the mixture is smooth and green in color. Add additional water as need to create a smooth, dressing-like consistency, Taste and add salt and pepper as desired. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.
4. Prepare the relish: Place the Fresno chilis, green onions, chives, orange peel, olive oil and pickling liquid in a small mixing bowl and stir to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning by adding salt, pepper and additional pickling liquid and olive oil to taste.
Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. 5. To serve, place the roasted eggplant onto a platter and drizzle with the green tahini.
Sprinkle the Fresno pepper relish over the eggplant and drizzle with additional olive oil as desired. Sprinkle with benne seeds and serve immediately. Note: Fairy Tale eggplant is a smaller, more slender and elongated variety with purple and white variegated, almost striped skin; it is known for its tender, creamy texture.
Recipe from “Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes Rooted in the New South” (Countryman Press) Pickled Fresno Peppers Makes 2 quarts 2 cups sherry vinegar 2 cups water 5 tablespoons granulated sugar 5 tablespoons kosher salt 1 pound Fresno peppers, sliced into 1/8-inch rings 1. Place vinegar, water, sugar and salt into a medium, nonreactive saucepan, set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes.
2. Place the peppers in a 2-quart heatproof, glass container and add the hot liquid. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Cover and refrigerate for up to six months. Recipe from “Thoughtful Cooking: Recipes Rooted in the New South” (Countryman Press) With our weekly newsletter packed with the latest in everything food. {{description}} Email notifications are only sent once a day, and only if there are new matching items.
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