Ask Tom Pecheux about the greatest milestone in his life, and with a twinkle in his eye, he’ll tell you: “My entire life. Every day is a new step that brings me , sometimes even pain, but it's a package and I won't cut it into pieces. I'll take the whole thing.
” YSL’s global beauty director is one of the most revered names in makeup artistry. Having crafted runway and campaign looks for , Givenchy, Ralph Lauren and others, his influence over the pages of glossy magazines and on the runways of New York, Milan, and Paris is undeniable. From like YSL’s Touche Éclat to the Volupté Liquid Colour Balm, the Frenchman has been at the helm of some of the most sophisticated beauty formulations we’ve seen yet.
“I’ve been fortunate; it’s not been without storms, but I'm fortunate,” he says. When I interject and remind him that his work is considered legendary, he says, “The fact that people say that is something I never expected or ever dreamed of. It's hard to get , but it makes the journey more pleasant when people call you a legend.
It means you’ve achieved something and you’ve helped build a better world. I still feel like a drop in the sea, but I’m grateful,” he says. As YSL Beauty launches in on Nykaa, the makeup maestro gives us a glimpse into how he does what he does, and the inspiration behind it all.
You’ve often expressed your admiration for the colour purple, even going as far as saying that it flatters every complexion. Was there a specific moment or experience that solidified this belief for you? I’m going to share a secret with you: I find every colour flattering for every face. You just need to embrace colour.
India is probably one of the first countries in the world where celebrate colour and dress in it too. All your traditions are based on incredible hues. And yes, purple is incredible.
I am a huge fan of the purple of iris flowers. When I started working with YSL Beauty, my first launch was based on this shade. It is one of my favourites and I think it is beautiful on Indian tones.
If you are open-minded and interested in what's happening outside your own little world, like me, you will discover beauty everywhere. When a woman sits in your makeup chair, how do you determine the look you'll create for them? Could you walk us through your process? It depends on the reason the woman is sitting in my chair. When I work with a woman, I request time with her to see if she is shy or eccentric, or if she's looking for a big change or just wants to upgrade her everyday life.
For me, it's important to understand her. I know artists who feel the opposite, but I don't impose my own judgment. The woman invites me into her world, her femininity, her journey.
I'm just here to propose. Do you have a favourite makeup product, one that's a staple in your kit? I don’t have just one. Do you have only one outfit or pair of pants in your wardrobe that you like the most? No.
You have your favourite pants, your favourite dress, your favourite . It's the same thing when you are a makeup artist. But my essentials are a black pencil for the eyes with a palette of eight eyeshadows from vivid to nude and from matte to shimmer.
Those are my makeup essentials for the eyes. Of course, a good lash clamp and mascara too. I'm a big fan of black mascara and I always say that you present diamonds in velvet.
For me, the eyes are the diamonds of the face. Can you elaborate on that a little? : I like to frame the eyes with black velvet. Sometimes, it also depends on the colour of the iris.
You can add a little bit of purple, green or blue—the colour can really enhance a person’s colour. And I like either very natural lips or a very bold lip colour, like a matte red. You know, the Slim Matte Longwear Lipstick, number 21 Rouge Paradoxe, for example, is what I call a pure red.
It's super intense and it lasts forever. It's bold, like a caricature of femininity and luxury. What’s one movie or book that inspired you? was a movie that inspired me because it offered a unique perspective compared to what we see every day.
I love the world we live in. It's beautiful despite the damage we often inflict upon it, but I'm to be present in it. When came out, it was groundbreaking.
Just when you think everything has been seen, this emerged with fresh ideas. I was a young makeup artist at the time and I saw this woman putting on makeup in a new way with a technique that was amazing. It will stick in my head forever.
You created the square-shaped Rouge Pur Couture The Slim Velvet Radical lipstick in one of your first few collections for YSL. What was going through your mind when you did that? I am not the only crazy one in the company. We were a group of people that created that lipstick.
And I am very pleased to have been part of that group. It was a team effort. You know, it is important when you are working at YSL to take risks, to create.
Mr did that his entire career—having a woman show up with one breast covered and the other hanging out...
that was shocking, but when things are beautiful, there is nothing bad you can say about it. But sure, you can be surprised. You recently curated an art show in a gallery in Paris.
How did that happen and what was going through your mind when you curated it? There's a gallery in America called Pace Gallery, and a few months ago, I was asked to create a show focused on beauty, inspired by the work of Irving Penn. He’s been the beauty photographer for for many decades, and his pictures are incredible. I had the chance to work with him when I was a very young makeup artist.
Even back then, I knew I was lucky, but I didn't realise just how lucky I was. Mr. Penn was already an old man at the time, but the experience was fantastic.
So, when I received the proposal for this show, I felt quite embarrassed because who am I to judge or do that kind of work? But I worked with wonderful people who are passionate about photography and , and the show has been very well received. I'm very happy..
