There was an air of suspense ahead of Burberry’s London show. The kind you might expect when there’s new leadership in place. The fresh arrival here is not a designer — spring/summer 2025 marks Daniel Lee’s fourth fashion show as chief creative officer — but a chief executive, as of July, in the form of Joshua Schulman, a former Coach and Jimmy Choo boss.
Questions abound — in particular, what impact Schulman would have in this short period (his appointment signalled Burberry’s repositioning as a more affordable brand, although chair Gerry Murphy has been effusive about the American executive’s luxury pedigree). And also, which renowned British models the brand would coax out this time, following the last show where Lily Donaldson and Lily Cole made a runway comeback. There were no surprising faces on the catwalk (held this time at the National Theatre, rather than the usual outdoors tent) but clearer indicators of where Schulman, who was in attendance, and Lee might be looking to take Burberry next.
The largely beige, black and grey-coloured looks felt like a more casual and muted take for the designer who made a big statement in his first season with mallard prints and bright checks. Backstage, Lee shared his desire “to explore the use of colour in a different way” and using more tranquil colours to “bring a sense of lightness to Burberry, which isn’t typically a very summertime brand.” That also translated to cargo trousers paired with sparkly ves.