First a point of clarification. While sherry is tagged in the headline — and indeed the names on these bottles, many of the classic production techniques, and even their taste profile may be similar to sherry — none of this week’s picks is sherry. They are distinct wines from Montilla-Moriles, a classic winemaking region in its own right, albeit lesser known than its Jerez neighbour.
This week’s picks are all from long-standing Montilla-Moriles producer Bodegas Alvear. It’s a lineup offering fun side-by-side comparison, working from bone dry to dessert-level sweet, and a great introduction to these unique regional wines. Alvear Fino, Spain ($22.
99, #112771) Unlike in sherry, Pedro Ximénez is the main grape used in Montilla-Moriles. Even in Fino wines. Such is the case with Alvear’s Fino, which is a bone dry, 100 per cent PX lip-smacker.
But like Fino sherry, it’s produced in a solera system under a layer of flor — a yeast covering that protects the wine from contact with air. The result is a very unique wine style that admittedly can be a tad polarizing. This is not rich, comforting wine.
It’s nutty and briny, full of green olive notes with an overt twang to finish. Plus it’s fantastic sipped as an aperitif with salty tapas or toasted nuts. Bottom line: B+, Uniquely refreshing.
Alvear Medium Dry, Spain ($23.49, #112789) If you’re looking for a little more richness and smoothness, then step up to Medium Dry. Again made entirely from Pedro Ximénez grap.