“If I was left to my own devices, I’d look like a macaron shop,” said Sienna Miller , post-Chloé spring/summer 2025 show and in raptures about the number of frothy lace bloomers on the runway. The actor, who was trussed up in a jaunty baby-blue, puff-sleeved jacket, dusty pink trousers and gargantuan wooden wedges, revealed that “any form of French antique underwear is [her] dream summer wardrobe”, and she had incidentally scooped up some sweet frilly briefs similar to those designed by Chemena Kamali at Portobello Road Market last week. “I’m going to send her a picture, because they belonged on that runway!” Miller must have felt like texting a picture of those old-school knickers to Alessandro Michele and Kim Jones upon seeing their own spring/summer 2025 shows play out at Valentino and Fendi, respectively.
After seasons of supercharged lingerie dressing, real granny pants are hiking their way up the underwear as outerwear agenda. Sienna, it seems, is not the only one who sees the power in this flouncy kind of femininity. Indeed, Michele’s Valentino debut was met with rapturous applause across the board (murmurs of “the king is back” were heard as guests filed out of the eerily romantic, dust sheet-filled Périphérique venue).
The designer, who enjoyed a two-year industry hiatus following his exit from Gucci, took inspiration from Valentino’s ’60s and ’70s “doll look”, and poured his own maximalist tendencies into the mix: all ruffles on.