Very refined bondage plus a vegan breakfast buffet made for a healthy start at this morning’s Undercover womenswear presentation. It was held at Dover Street Market Paris: we filed through the courtyard, past the chair avalanche installation by Tadashi Kawamata, and headed downstairs. Once there we were greeted with a group of recognizably quotidian garments arranged on mannequins.
There was a white hoodie worn with black leather leggings. A red knit polo shirt with matching five-pocket pants. A white T-shirt dress.
A khaki cardigan. A white tailored blazer with a matching skirt. A biker jacket (naturally).
And a long black tailored coat dress. You noticed that the lifeless figures were wearing the same lace collars and metal leaf or nail headpieces last seen at June’s menswear show . Some wore new accessories: gauze chokers embroidered with the words “KOSMIK WITCH.
” Yet the most striking details lay within those aforementioned garments; banks of parallel golden zippers set in leather strips and linked by more leather lacing, or sections of metal-buckled strapping that contained and defined. Jun Takahashi was on hand, via translator, to outline. The translator summated: “The core of Undercover design is usually putting some of his unique taste into daily clothes.
.. adding some fetish-ness, and being able to adjust the size and the silhouette can make daily clothes more sexy and also more elegant.
” Punk is one of Takahashi’s foundational influences, and the worn .