The water gurgles softly against the hull of our sailboat, a steady tinkle from the bilge pump masked by the rhythmic clink-clink from rigging stirred by the gently swell. It is 11pm, the sun has just dipped below the horizon, and the sea off this tiny, remote island in the Inner Hebrides has slackened to a slow roll. We are utterly, fantastically, alone.
We have dropped anchor at the Treshnish Isles, an archipelago of small islands off Mull that draws visitors from all over the world attracted to its colony of curious-looking puffins. But, right now, as the stars blink into life above our heads and long after the last day tripper has puttered off on one of the many tour boats, we are left in peace to enjoy this still-unspoilt part of Scotland. Earlier we had powered through the Sound of Mull from colourful Tobermory, where we spent the first night on our boat, Steady, after boarding in Oban on a blisteringly sunny day.
Steady’s owners, Jan-Willem and Mariëlle Kerkmeer, give us a tour of their beautiful ship, a large white, black and green steel yacht that can host up to eight guests. Jan-Willem and Mariëlle are a Dutch couple with a rich sailing history who for the last number of seasons have taken Steady to Scotland’s stunning waterways, bringing their wealth of nautical expertise with them. Our berths feature comfortable bunk beds and little portholes where we can enjoy the views of the islands rocking in and out of view as we sail.
There is also a spacious seating.