TOM PARKER BOWLES has good old fashioned fun at American-style grand cafe The Park, in London's Bayswater By Tom Parker Bowles For You Magazine Published: 12:01, 27 July 2024 | Updated: 12:01, 27 July 2024 e-mail View comments It was hardly the most thrilling of prospects: a ground-floor restaurant in Park Modern, that brand spanking newbuild beside Hyde Park , where the penthouse is yours for a mere £60 million. In most hands, this would be little more than a glorified refectory, sustenance for the terminally rich, a gilded add-on to the concierge, cinema and 24-hour gym. But The Park stands resolutely alone, master of its own universe, the latest restaurant from Jeremy King.
Having brought Le Caprice back to life, in the new guise of Arlington, the man is on a roll. And his great skill as a restaurateur is not just in understanding restaurants, but understanding us. Cobb salad is just as it should be: salad for people who don’t like salads The room is broad, handsome and flooded with light, all clean lines and blond wood, vibrant Horst P Horst photos and good art.
Banquettes are clad in soft caramel leather, and service is equally deluxe. The all-day menu, which has an American accent but European heart, is a beauty: crab linguine alongside cheeseburgers; gotham shrimp cocktail – five plump beauties with a horseradish heavy, chilled tomato dip – cheek by jowl with summer minestrone. My first visit is dinner with my daughter, and we eat charred corn ribs, and a chicag.